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11 Free Things to Do on your Big Sur Drive in California
Are you heading on a Big Sur drive soon? Do you love waterfalls, hiking, beaches, wildlife…
…and being out of contact from the rest of the world?
Then read on because I am about to share my secrets with you, fellow budget traveler, with these 11 free things to do along the remote coast of Big Sur, California.
I’m a California native who has driven allll the way up and down our large state (from Mexico to Oregon and back) several times - both on my own and with friends.
I’ve written this article from my own recent experience doing the Big Sur drive post-pandemic with a friend. The untouched beach bluffs that greet you with a different personality every morning remain a photographer’s dream!
Note: Before you hit up these free things to do on your Big Sur drive, you absolutely need to make sure you have maps downloaded offline since the internet will not work at all on this remote coast. You can use the free app maps.me to download the map of California. Make sure you save all these locations beforehand, so you have all the hiking trails and campsite locations. You’ll need them.
Now, get ready to hit the road!
Your Big Sur drive is the place to unplug, get lost, and find your spirit along the unforgiving coastline.
The Mystical Big Sur drive
Dark, brooding beaches exist without another pair of footprints in sight.
Purple sand sprawls next to thick sea stars chilling on rocks, while miniature crabs scuttle about.
Sparkling lime waterfalls surprise hikers at the end of miles and miles of overgrown forest trails.
And bushels of poison oak claw at you from every corner.
I spent 5 days with no cell service exploring the longest stretch of undisturbed coast in the United States: Big Sur, California.
90 miles along Pacific Coast Highway 1 in Central California from Carmel to San Simeon brims of rocky beaches with character and redwood mountains so steep they’ll bang up any car smaller than a Jeep.
Upon arrival, it is easy to understand why Big Sur glitters majestic.
For rugged campers or backpackers, the solitude experienced on the Big Sur drive is a dream. You must have an offline map to find your way around the less-visited landscape, while families will probably stick to the state parks.
Besides privacy, the preservation of the area maintains that Big Sur will always stay true; the flora and fauna will (hopefully) continue to flourish, and it gives people a chance to see how beautiful California would be without infrastructure.
Lastly, Big Sur wows due to its affordability. If you are craving a getaway and know how to pitch a tent, you can visit Big Sur for the price of food and gas.
I will note that state parks charge $10 for cars, but there are ways to get in free as well which I will detail below.
Ok Wolfette, here are 11 free things to do on your Big Sur drive in California, from a local:
11. Observe the Elephant Seals in San Simeon
Location on Google Maps: Elephant Seal Vista Point
Those aren’t rocks… they’re elephant seals laying down!
Our first Southern stop on the way to Big Sur proper was an unexpected turn at the Elephant Seal viewing area in San Simeon.
Don’t let the mellow photo fool you. These elephant seals play-fought in the water together and bounced along the shores until we experienced cuteness overload.
Yes, it’s free like everything else on this list. You’ll just stop on the side of the highway for your up close encounters with wildlife.
10. Swim at gorgeous Salmon Creek Falls
Location on Google Maps: Salmon Creek Trailhead
Hiking distance: 0.3 miles
Wow! These gorgeous, green falls at Salmon Creek reside just a short walk from highway 1, so no strenuous hiking is involved.
Keep an eye out as you map your Big Sur drive, because you’ll have to quickly park at the side of the road (no parking lot) on a busy bend of highway.
Wade, swim, and jump in the emerald pool to cool off. If you desire a longer hike, you can continue up the trail to Upper Salmon Creek Falls, about 5 miles round trip.
9. Slide down Ragged Point and enjoy a private beach
Location on Google Maps: Ragged Point Inn & Resort
Hiking distance: 0.8 miles
Ragged Point is a steep hike that leads you down the cliff to a gorgeous, quiet sandy beach where you will probably be alone, due to the nature of the trail.
You will park in the same parking lot as Ragged Point Inn & Resort, with the trailhead behind the hotel.
To make the descent safely, you’ll want athletic shoes with traction since the loose dirt tended to slide underneath your feet.
We had fun stomping and jumping around the round rocks at the bottom and finding our own hideaways for about an hour.
8. Discover hidden Redwood trees at Redwood Gulch
Location on Google Maps: Nathaniel Owings Memorial Redwood Grove
Hiking distance: 0.6 miles
We missed the stop at Redwood Gulch, because no sign warned us along the road. After turning around and going back to the coordinates of the unmarked turnoff, we spotted a thin beige path.
This unassuming path led us to the location of the southernmost Redwood trees, lining a watering hole perfect for a skinny dip.
The humble falls and musky forest seemed to be plucked out of a fairytale. (Any 90’s babies remember the cartoon forest nymph, Fern Gully?).
7. Slink in the caves at Sand Dollar Beach
Location on Google Maps: Sand Dollar Beach
Sand Dollar Beach might possibly be our favorite beach in California.
We discovered several spacious caves on the edge of the beach, large enough to walk around in and relax. The caves resembled secret auditoriums, a shaded paradise away from the world while we lazily peered out at the blue horizon.
In addition to private caves, the beauty and adventure lured us in. The water appeared so clear and pristine that you could see each grain of sand beside your toes. The sky reflected off the sand, projecting an infinite sapphire vortex.
To avoid any fees, simply park on the street outside of the parking lot.
6. Camp above the clouds
Location: Hidden (Details below)
Big Sur’s low-brewing clouds prove eerily reminiscent of a James Bond film, paired with boosted high mountains that call in the heavens.
Although most official campgrounds were listed around $40-$70 per night, you can save the cash and camp for free in several astounding locations throughout Big Sur.
Instead of giving away all the secrets here and exposing the spots, I recommend you use the apps and websites Campendium, Boondocking, or freecampsites.net to check out the updated campsites that other reviewers have listed. These are the tools I always use on my primitive camping journey, along with maps.me.
A lot of these camp spots require a four-wheel drive vehicle to reach them (we learned the hard way) and may be unofficial, but they will usually be free.
Other non-free options include looking on Hipcamp (like Airbnb, but for camping) or camping within the state parks and official campgrounds (Kirk Creek campground has an awesome view!).
5. Take a magical hike along Mill Creek
Location on Google Maps: Mill Creek Trailhead
Hiking distance: 2.3 miles
Zip down the mile-or-so-long trail to quiet Mill Creek, where you can walk-in camp or just chill by the creek in a forest-flooded daze.
The forest quickly transformed into pages of a storybook: illustrations depicted sleeping wood, golden sunlight peaking through the standing beauties, and viney grottos to soak in.
We plummeted to the bottom of the valley and turned left along the creek, following the water’s way to increase the trail length. Just watch out for poison oak and snakes along the way (and bring warm clothes for after that icy fresh bath, even in Summer.)
4. Prance in purple sand at northern beaches
Location on Google Maps: Andrew Molera Beach or Pfieffer Beach
Our Big Sur drive displayed a rainbow of colors, from purple sand to green forests, blue skies, and orange Golden poppies.
The rose tinted bluffs, like in the photo above, scatter purple sand along Pfeiffer and Andrew Molera beaches.
You’ll have to visit the beach to find the most concentrated areas, where the sand is literally bright violet.
3. Tread in the Big Sur River
Location on Google Maps: Big Sur River Gorge
Our beloved sun’s UV rays don’t take the day off even when the weather is overcast, so we sought a brief whisper of shade along the Big Sur River.
The River Gorge forms a swimming hole in crystal clear pools after a mellow trail.
2. Visit the renowned state parks
Seeking a remote escape, travelers can receive free hugs from the wildflowers, arbors, and aquatic bodies that live in Big Sur’s state parks.
Winding miles and miles of trails in these state parks each tell their own chapter in Big Sur’s anthology.
While most of the parks are $10 for cars to park, you can instead park on highway 1 and enter them for free on foot (except for Limekiln: no walk-ins).
If you do decide to purchase the $10 parking pass for any of the following parks, the pass is valid for any of the other parks on the same day - essentially free.
Limekiln State Park
Location on Google Maps: Limekiln State Park
Arrive before 10AM to get a parking spot in this southern state park.
Skip over to Limekiln Creek Falls for a dreamy staircase of cascades, and follow along peaceful Hare Creek for a 2 mile nature walk.
Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park
Location on Google Maps: Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park
The Pfeiffer Falls and Valley View combination route guided us to a modest-falling spout, though nonetheless enchanting, and a sunny lookout to reward our sweaty backs at the top.
The most well-rounded journey is Buzzard’s Roost trail, a spellbinding path sprinkled with young redwoods, tricky hills, and the Big Sur River welcoming you at the front door.
Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park
Location on Google Maps: Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park
The picturesque McWay Falls graces postcards and magnets as an icon of Big Sur proper.
Besides the falls that tumble onto a scenic, teal beach, the park charms with a secluded silver bay and cliff-hanging trails.
Andrew Molera State Park
Location on Google Maps: Andrew Molera State Park
Combine the Beaches (easy), Bluffs (moderate), and Ridge (strenuous) trails for a heart-beating 8-mile adventure, or simply pick one to wander along.
If the fog clears out along the Ridge trail, you’ll get a panoramic view of baby blue waters among the fragrant foliage — though you’ll have to climb dozens of flights to earn it.
For a less mobile day, indulge in pure beach access at Molera Point.
1. Pick your own seascape spot for an epic vista picnic
Location: Anywhere there’s a turnoff
The Big Sur drive is full of epic views like these, with no one else around…
Sometimes, the most precious pleasures are the freedoms you create yourself.
Roll up a quilt and tuck in sandwiches, muffins and hot coffee. Simmer over to a turnoff on the coastal highway, and enjoy a picnic overlooking one of the last natural places in the world.
hi wolfette, i’m molly
Travel is a spiritual experience for me, especially when adventuring solo.
After visiting 6 continents on my own, I’ve dedicated this project to assisting other Lone Wolfettes on their journeys.
I hope my travel guides help you find the same joy, connection, and empowerment that exploring our planet has given me.
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Things to do in Southern Utah: 6 Epic Parks Besides Zion
Stand on the edge of the Earth, peering down at the crusted layers of core that peel back to reveal a deep canyon of rivers, trees, and multi-colored rock.
Ascend onto deformed shapes resembling goblins, castles, or backbones of a lurking beast.
Question your galactic surroundings as you squeeze through narrow slots of Mars-like walls.
* * *
Southern Utah is home to enormous stretches of natural treasures that make for a perfect road trip, all within a few hours driving distance of one another.
While droves of experienced trekkers swarm from around the world to hike Utah’s famous Zion National Park, this Southwest corner of the U.S. houses several other gorgeous Parks deserving of a visit.
If you are frequenting 3 or more national parks this year, you should purchase an annual national parks pass ($80) that gives you access to any national park in the country. For multiple state parks, Southern Utah maintains different passes, available upon arrival.
Following the route of our road trip, here are 6 epic national and state parks we conquered in Southern Utah:
Arches National Park
Arches National Park ended up being my favorite park, certainly worth the out-of-the-way excursion to the East side of Utah.
The famous Delicate Arch (featured in the article’s main photo) graces the Utah license plates for a reason. Each naturally-occurring arch in the park stands larger than life when you reach them up close.
Mellow, moderate, and difficult hikes reward visitors with hanging arches and glowing caverns.
We also witnessed petroglyphs throughout the park, finding them prevalent throughout Utah.
I recommend you linger in Arches after dusk, and even camp if you can. The animals meander at night, the people leave, but most of all, the starry experience lights up the silent magic of the park.
Dead Horse Point State Park
On the way to Canyonlands, we took an unexpected stop at Dead Horse Point State Park. The jolting name comes from the abrupt canyon drop-off where stampedes of horsed would unknowingly run over the side.
Thankfully, we didn’t fall down the canyon - but the panoramic views of the Colorado river astounded us.
The level walks around this small park brought relief from the daring adventures at the other parks, but still got us a bit lost, which is always fun.
Canyonlands National Park
Canyonlands’ name sounded like a theme park to me - and ultimately, the great heights, treacherous climbs, and hundreds of miles of trails fostered a similar happy-go-lucky experience.
This gargantuan park spans over 330,000 acres of land, with so much to do that I could return again and again. The park is divided into 4 districts: Island in the Sky (most approachable and popular), the Needles (farther hikes for backpackers), the Maze (most remote and inaccessible), and the rivers Green and Colorado.
When you reach the spout at the top of Whale Rock, you have to take a photo, right?
While the stunning Mesa Arch was closed, we stomped up Whale Rock, as well as a full-sun saunter along Murphy Point Trail (note to self: pack a parasol per person next time. Phew!).
In addition to hiking, Canyonlands offers river rafting, jeep tours and other backcountry excursions. You could easily spend a week there exploring.
Goblin Valley State Park
We screeched to a halt as we passed the sign for Goblin Valley State Park, a name too enticing to pass by.
Mushroom-shaped hoodoos personify little goblins in this trippy valley as you head West through the bottom of the state.
Weather and the elements carved these figures into thick monsters, causing you to wonder if you are on a bad psychedelic trip. You can spend time trying to guess what the hoodoos resemble, as if you were pondering over clouds in the sky.
Be warned, the dry heat lingers warmer down in the valley, where there are no set hiking trails - just wander freely. In late June, we couldn’t stay longer than an hour in the valley while we sweltered, even with full bottles of water.
Pleasantly, we completed the hikes around the valley that highlighted Molly’s Castle (hey, that’s me!) and a surprisingly skinny slot canyon.
Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument
Encompassing over a million acres, we barely scratched the surface at Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. The staircase name details the row of plateaus from Bryce Canyon toward the Grand Canyon.
These photos featured are from the Spooky Slot Canyon, a hike so narrow that only smaller folks can squeeze through, without a backpack.
I learned rapidly that Utah hikes were not for the faint of heart, with parts of the hike you could seriously get stuck in (but yes, I still recommend it the challenge!).
The humongous swath of land in Escalante features waterfalls, gulches, slot canyons, and hundreds of miles of towering cliffs. In other words, the remote hiker can really get away from it all at the Grand Staircase, an epic place that deserves much more of my coverage.
Bryce Canyon National Park
Bryce was so nice, I had to visit it twice! Check out my article on how to spend 1 day in Bryce Canyon for a full synopsis.
The main access road through Bryce Canyon National Park stretches just 18 miles, packing the most punch into a relatively “smaller” park, so you can see a lot of variation in a short amount of time.
Connect Queens Garden with Navajo Loop for a fantastic well-rounded hike that features redwoods, peek-a-boo windows, lavish structures, and a rainbow of whites, oranges, yellows and reds.
The colors of Bryce pop as bright as the pictures, and sunsets shine absolutely golden.
Happy travels!
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How I Got Stuck in the Pai-Hole: Why Thailand’s Mountain Town is Hard to Escape
“Molly… How long have you been here?”
My new wide-grinned acquaintance, a 22-year-old shirtless man living in Florida, looked up at me inquisitively as I pranced with my hula hoop on an uneven bamboo dock that was nestled by the sparkling river along the back-acre lawn of Paradise Bar.
“Umm… I don’t know, actually,” I responded carelessly, suddenly realizing I had genuinely lost of track of time during my stop in Pai, the laidback mountain town in northern Thailand near the border of Myanmar. “I think I’ve been here, maybe a couple weeks?”
We were gathered on the outskirts of the main town, enjoying a sun-kissed afternoon by the water with a couple friends, singing classic songs with a guitar-yielding traveler from France and a Brazilian mermaid who carried the voice of an angel. Everything flowed so naturally, and I frolicked my heart out on the dock, feeling deeply connected to the sky, sun, trees, water, and earth like never before. I was barefoot with soil-stained soles, skin tanned to a crisp, unbothered by the mosquitoes and sweat of the 90-degree afternoon.
I suppose I blended in well, feeling so at home with my surroundings, that it appeared I had been in Pai for a long time.
“Have you ever heard of the Pai-hole?” he asked me.
I turned to look at him and paused for a moment, taking a break from flinging my hoop through the soggy air for hours, wiped the sweat off my brow, and exhaled.
“No, I haven’t…” I replied unconvincingly, denying what I suspected what was to come. “What is it?”
Florida was laying down on his back, peering up at the rich purple-colored sky with dazed, half-open eyes.
“The Pai-hole is what you get stuck in,” he explained dauntingly. “It’s when people come to Pai to visit for just a moment, but they end up getting sucked in. Backpackers will travel across the world, spending a few days in each place, hopping all around Southeast Asia, the mountains, the beaches, the islands,” he continued. “But when they come to Pai… well, they forget about all the plans they had, the rest of the trips they were going to make. They never leave.”
Shit, I thought, as I looked around at the overgrown grass, the last of the dusk light seeping into darkness. He’s right. I’ve gone complete, full dirty hippie, singing kumbaya songs to Mother Nature until the wind chill hits at night. I haven’t talked to my folks or friends back home in at least a week. I’ve halted all thoughts of my next buses, trains, or flights to catch, countries to visit. I don’t even wear sunscreen or bug repellant anymore in this jungle village under the scorching South Asian sun. I can’t walk down the streets of Pai without running into handfuls of friends and locals I know, which is always a delight. I spend my nights parading with the circus freaks and dancing to the beat of (literal) drums. I’m living 100% in the present moment, and I absolutely love it.
But I wouldn’t admit it openly yet, the slightest tinge of anxiety creeping in as night fell, thinking about truly getting sucked in to this supposed black hole.
“Nah,” I countered, starting to sway with my hoop again. “That just sounds like something people made up!”
On my right, France suddenly looked up from his guitar, even though he had stopped playing a while ago.
“It’s a real thing,” he stated matter-of-factly. “You’re already in it.”
* * *
A few days after that evening, I woke up from my Pai slumber and decided to visit the neighboring area of Mae Hong Son for a new experience, trekking even deeper in the mountains – but I will always remember the beautiful moments shared in this psychedelic village close to my heart.
So what is it about the elusive Pai? What makes this city so compelling? Here are a few reasons why I believe this friendly town draws in droves of backpackers every year, making you never want to leave.
The community is full of creative artists and performers.
Do you love art, music, dance? Pai has it all. The difference between Pai and other cities, however, is the encouragement of creative expression without any judgment. It’s a great place to get your foot in the door, a chance to try performing in front of an audience for the first time, or to gain experience learning or teaching. This is why Pai fosters a creative hub for aspiring artists to play without hesitation.
Open mic nights offer a space for poets, musicians, and all types of dream-weavers to share their gifts to a supportive crowd. Fire shows and circus acts pop up at different hostels and venues every week. Live jazz, reggae, and acoustic performances are popular staples at restaurants and bars in town. Dance music DJs spin evening sets at open air pubs and the epic jungle parties.
In the related realm of creative spirits, Pai is a flow-centric town with yoga, acro-yoga, and ecstatic dance gatherings for all us new-age backpackers. And as I’ve mentioned before - if you’ve never even tried it, this is the perfect place to start!
You get to know everyone in town quickly.
Being a relatively small town, with the main roads being Walking Street and Bar street, you get the opportunity to run into the same people everywhere you go, even after just a couple days of visiting.
More importantly, the chill atmosphere between locals and foreigners is more inviting and welcoming compared with the disparity in Southern Thailand as many travelers have noted.
When it’s easy to make friends, you feel at home – even across the world. I also stayed in several different hostels which allowed me to meet more and more people.
Unfortunately for me and others staying in town for extended periods, I would get very close to new friends and then they would leave for other places, resulting in heartbreak every 3 days! But they all sheepishly said the same thing: “I wish I was staying longer.”
The vibes are trippy, hippie, chill, man.
Beyond the dreadlocked backpackers and vegged-out nomads, Pai emits psychedelic vibes in its own light, not just because of the visitors! Though it’s not the same “as it used to be years ago,” as the nature of change usually is, it’s still totally a place to trip out and take a breath. Chill.
Whether it’s lounging at a neon hidden hideout like Spirit Bar, whispering under the stars at Pai Yard Guesthouse, dusting in the depths of the Jungle Zone bashes, sitting in silence under the protection of the looming White Buddha, or gazing out into the orange-hilled sunset at Pai Canyon… there is a mystifying presence in the smokey air that you can’t quite put your finger on.
It’s a nature lover’s dream.
Several waterfalls rush through the corners of Pai, donating a generous dose of pools to cool off in the heat. Hiking trails overgrown with exotic plants hug your limbs as you trek through the misty jungle. The painted sunsets are unmatched over gentle mountains and aggressive rivers. Cold, eerie caves with frosted formations are an hour’s drive away. Reptiles, birds, ox, livestock and all types of insects make their home where they wish – not to mention the elephants at Elephant Camp!
While Pai has practically all the modern amenities one could wish for, it remains a gem for nature seekers who want the best of both worlds.
The Night Market is actually fun.
Unlike other busy night markets in Asia, Pai’s Night Market is a relaxing stroll every night. It’s a social hotspot where everyone meets up without even having to text, gulps a drink in the streets, pries for unique clothes, handicrafts, and of course, eats dinner every night!
Indulge in avocado tea leaf salad, grilled salted-and-buttered corn, savory steamed dumplings, sweet potato and pumpkin burgers, too-big-to-bite falafel pita wraps, fresh fruit smoothies, Thai-style tacos, quirky flavors of bruschetta or flatbreads, chewy banana-nutella crepes or ‘roti’… and these are only the vegetarian options.
Ok, so maybe the globalization is getting a bit out of hand here. But the prices are unbeatable (about $1 to $4 USD per dish for the street vendors), and it’s a tempting break from eating pad thai and fried rice for every other meal.
The longer you stay, the more hidden gems you encounter.
Staying in Pai is like reading a book: the more you read, the more into it you get. That’s because a lot of the magic is only spread through word of mouth and therefore cannot be found from doing research online or in books. I suppose some secrets are best to be kept.
What treasures, you might ask? I bet I barely know a handful, compared with those who live there, but to give you a taste… A sauna attached to a dance venue. Infinity pools stretching over the mountains. Psychedelic mushroom shakes and farms. Spontaneous drum circles. Bamboo tattoo boys. River-dwelling reiki masters. Shamans, medicinal herbalists. Friendly Thai mothers who invite you into their guesthouses for warm eats and sleeps, treating you more like family than a hotel guest. Fat, furry dogs and cats brushing past your calves at every establishment. Mind-blowing painters and woodworkers. Outdoor wine bars with vocalists belting their souls out into the forest. Peculiar postcard shops adorned with lovely murals and emotional quotes. A new tribe of friends from every continent. (Ok, maybe not Antarctica). And again, blacklight jungle parties, where you have to cross rivers and secret pathways to get there!
But we can’t give up alllll the secrets. You’ll have to see for yourself what the love is all about.
Just don’t get stuck in the Pai-hole.
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The best moments can’t truly be captured, right?
What I Wish I Knew Before Visiting Doi Suthep, Thailand
If you are visiting Chiang Mai, Thailand’s second largest city to Bangkok, you will most likely pay a visit to the gold temple on the hill: Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, and the surrounding area. However, before you go blindly visit the sacred site like I did, take heed of these tips to make your day efficient.
I had a fantastic time regardless, with the dripping-gold monuments almost blinding me, and the views I will truly never forget.
Doi Suthep is the name of the mountain, not the temple.
This one was a rookie mistake on my part, but it resulted in unexpected beautiful scenery, so I can’t complain.
If you search “Doi Suthep” in your GPS, you will end up driving for a while up windy roads in the forest. When we got to a one-way road, we started to grow suspicious. Finally, Google Maps told us, “You have arrived!” in the middle of the forest.
Although Doi Suthep is the colloquial abbreviation that everyone uses when discussing the landmark, the full name of the temple is Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep. The error sent us about 30 minutes past the real location, but the cool breeze up in the mountains and gorgeous sun rays peaking through the trees was a refreshing break from the hot and dry city level anyhow.
Doi Suthep mountain is 5,500 feet (1,676 meters) high and looks over Chiang Mai.
The dress code at Bhubing Palace is extraordinarily formal.
If you have entered temples before, you know the basics of covering your knees, shoulders, and taking off your shoes. But Bhubing Palace, the next stop down the road for many travelers, has a notoriously formal dress code.
Both men and women must wear thick clothing (my top was deemed too see-through) that basically goes down to the ankles, with tops that have longer sleeves. Most people in 90 degree heat are not walking around covered head to toe, so fortunately there are shops outside the palace that rents clothing for a price equivalent to $1 USD per clothing item, plus a deposit.
However, you might not get to choose your outfit, with resulted in this garish colored garb I was stuck to parade around with!
Half of the year, you cannot even enter the Palace. But they will still sell you a ticket.
After succumbing to the elegant traditional wardrobe (love the style; I just didn’t prefer the colors), we bought tickets to Bhubing Palace for around $3 USD each, only to walk around the grounds and find out - along with other confused foreigners - that we were only allowed to see the royal gardens.
The palace is the royal winter residence of the Thai Royal Family. Therefore, during the winter months, you cannot enter the enticing palace, but you may view the many acres of exotic flowers and plants, charismatic trees, sparkling reservoir, and sloping hillsides, which I admit were quite impressive. I only wish that the ticket office let us know before purchasing tickets.
If anyone asks, I had the best time. Remember, "whoever defames, insults or threatens the King, the Queen, the Heir-apparent or the Regent, shall be punished with imprisonment of three to fifteen years."
Epic waterfalls are near the temple; you can see one the same day.
Save on transportation costs and swim at gushing waterfalls near Doi Suthep in the same day. I wish I visited one of these when I made the 40-minute trip to Doi Suthep, but ended up checking them out on different days.
The following waterfalls are near the Doi Suthep area west of Chiang Mai, and you will only need a couple hours at each one:
Mae Sa Waterfall – 10 levels of pools, with swimming and plenty of room to picnic.
Monthathan Waterfall – located inside Doi Suthep-Pui National Park with a swimming hole and multiple levels.
Huay Kaew Waterfall – Short walking trail in a picturesque setting, but usually only flowing during rainy season or right after.
Mae Sa waterfall has 10 levels of swimming pools. Shh… the top one is the best.
There are often police checkpoints on the way to Doi Suthep, checking for your international driver’s license.
Being a popular tourist attraction, you are likely to hit a checkpoint leaving Chiang Mai if you are driving. If you don’t have an international license, the fine will be about $15 USD. They pull you over, charge the fine, and you are on your way in a minute, so it’s not a huge deal. I believe after this ticket, you can drive for another 3 days before being fined again, but no guarantees with Thai police.
Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep’s gold-latent interior, breathtaking views, and new construction is indeed stunning.
Is the famous temple worth the hype? In my opinion, yes! Though we had visited many, many, many other temples in Southeast Asia, this one is close to the city and definitely worth visiting if you are in Chiang Mai.
…Just get ready for the gargantuan, exhausting staircase to get to the top.
Happy travels!
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My Favorite Things to Do Near Chiang Mai, Thailand
When planning my trip to Thailand, I had heard so much hype surrounding Chiang Mai and couldn’t wait to arrive in the Old City in the north.
However, as with any big city, I was a bit lost upon landing. What are the true highlights worth visiting, and what is simply a tourist trap? What is it that gives Chiang Mai its character? Is it all about the Old City Square, or is it necessary to venture outside of the main town?
What we discovered in this blazing hot urban hub was a little bit of both worlds: there are treasures within the popular center of town, but it is also essential to embark on a quest to the surrounding areas of Chiang Mai to grasp the full experience.
The modern new town is creative, full of rich art and music with a youthful flavor, juxtaposed with scattered remnants of old city temples and monuments. Beyond the center, you will want to take day trips to discover national parks, waterfalls, elephant sanctuaries, mountains, and more.
Note: it is not necessary to stay in the higher-priced accommodations within the tourist-filled square; you can easily stay outside the river perimeter and simply walk everywhere for a more relaxed visit.
Though I am sure this list is equivalent to one drop of spice in a bowl of Tom Yum, here are my favorite things to do in Chiang Mai!
Visit the elephant sanctuaries.
Spending time with elephants was one of my two favorite days I spent near Chiang Mai. It was a rewarding experience I will remember for the rest of my life.
We participated in Elephant Delight Project, which was run by Elephant Nature Park, one of the top ethical elephant sanctuaries in Thailand. Rather than just visit the nature park with dozens of elephants, we opted for the project because it gave us the opportunity to spend time with a select few elephants in their natural habitat. We hiked with four elephants through the mountains, prepared their food and fed them, and bathed the mud off their backs in the river.
Each of these adorable elephants carried a majestic presence. Females ranging in all ages, some were sweet, some were sassy, and all were so lovable. They portrayed a silent power, a captivating aura that humbled me and felt close to them. The mighty way they strolled, the slow movements, and their welcoming nature left me in a sense of awe that lasted all the way home, long after we had left. In short, I truly missed them after feeling that closeness to these beautiful beings.
The entire day’s cost, which included pickup from our hotel in Chiang Mai and lunch, was about $80 USD. If you are traveling on a budget… you should still, 100% choose to make this your splurge. It was completely worth it. After all, what are we traveling for other than life-changing moments like these? Just make sure your sanctuary is a no-riding, ethical sanctuary.
Climb Sticky Waterfalls.
Other than the elephant sanctuary, my next favorite day in Chiang Mai was spent at Bua Tong Waterfalls, also known as Sticky Waterfalls. The name references the strong grip of the rocks, so sticky that you can walk up and down them. Just be careful not to step on the green rocks, as those are the slippery ones. Ropes will guide you and give you balance while the water rushes down, cooling you off in the heat.
Photo by Khuong Tran
About three levels of rapids run from top to bottom, giving you a fun challenge. Enjoy the pools at the bottom of each waterfall and take those epic pictures that make the falls look scarier than they are. (I mean, it’s safe even for kids, but I’ll admit I was glad that I had travel health insurance!).
To get to Bua Tong Waterfalls, you must drive about 75 minutes north from the city center, but it is certainly worth the excursion.
Eat, drink, and enjoy performances at the night markets.
Unlike the previous bullet points, the rest of the list are things you can do in the city center that require no travel besides your own two feet.
Chiang Mai is the absolute queen of night markets. There are different night markets on certain days of the week, like the Saturday walking street (Wua Lia) or Sunday walking street (Tha Pae), but there are also staples that run every night. Not only is the quantity of markets impressive, but the size of each are massive. They are never-ending streets that practically stretch across the city.
What creates the allure of the markets? Besides shopping for everything under the sun (tchotchkes, art, hand goods, ceramics, jewelry, mementos, watches, leather, silks, boatloads of clothing)… you can savor cheap food, guzzle down drinks, enjoy live entertainment and meet up with everyone in town. Dumplings, curry, sweet noodles, exotic fruit, fried insects, yum. It is a grand affair every night, especially the weekend markets, though it does get overly crowded in parts.
My favorite market is the biggest, yet most low-key as it is outside the city center: Anusaran Market, on the South East side. Most tourists do not make it out this far off the beaten path. I like how it is a more relaxed experience with more locals and lots of space. A high-ceiling tent with well-lit booths stretches to the back for what seems like a mile, or 2 kilometers! Plus, you can catch a Muay Thai fight, Lady Boy Caberet Show, or rock out to the bands at the bars.
Listen to live music.
Speaking of live entertainment, the night markets are full of musicians that play blues, rock, jazz, reggae, country, classics… we heard a lot of Western music.
For a more intimate experience, check out the North Gate Jazz Co-Op. The tiny bar belts out live music every night after 7pm in an open-air venue on the street. Besides jazz, the acts play an eclectic mix, like jam bands or rock. I was digging it, and it’s a mellow place to visit alone.
The Roots, Rock, Reggae bar, a chilled spot wedged between the crazy wild dance floors at Zoe in Yellow square, brings groovy reggae acts to the elevated stage. I was impressed by the talent in this diverse town that transported me to other worlds each night.
Discover edgy street art.
Around narrow corners and alleys are bright street murals with powerful messages. Growing up in Los Angeles, I have seen a lot of graffiti - but none possessed quite the positive vibe I witnessed in Chiang Mai.
Photo by Khuong Tran
Lots of creatures, animals, and artistic themes characterized the street art, just down the way from ancient temples and ruins. This new wave generation of tattooed Thai culture glared deep colors along the walls in contrast with the old city history throughout the city.
Get a Thai massage.
Come on, would the list be complete without a traditional Thai massage? The truth is, you will do a lot of walking during your travels, and the yoga-style massages will give you a deep stretch for around $5. The first time I got a massage in Chiang Mai, I returned the next day for another!
I usually pick a studio that has decent reviews online, but I have also just walked in and been lucky to receive a nice massage. There is also a massage place run by women that are ex-prisoners, as it is difficult for them to get a job in society after doing time. I stumbled across it by accident, on the north east corner of old square, and it was fantastic! She was a strong one, so don’t be afraid to give your preference on soft or hard.
Tipping is not required, but I always give a donation to the massage therapists as it is a nice gesture, and the service is much cheaper than in the Western World for the same amount of effort.
Wander into quiet, unforeseen temples.
In Chiang Mai’s Old City, gold and white Buddhist temples hide on almost every street. I had a more memorable experience in these unprecedented visits, contrasted with the most popular temples that charge fees to enter with crowds of people roaming in and out.
While we tried to navigate the streets to find the ancient ruins of Wat Chedi Luang (which is not hard to find, but we had just stepped off the plane), we would instead accidentally walk into smaller local temples with no one else inside besides monks watering the gardens.
These quiet temples felt the most sacred to me, as I could feel the tranquil energy and admire the intricate holy sites with glimmering red jewels and monuments, making sure to honor the space. Sometimes, the best kept secrets are along the roads less traveled by.
Attend holiday celebrations.
The perfect way to end my experience in Chiang Mai was at the Flower Festival, a 4-day extravaganza of colorful flowers and events throughout the parks and streets.
Friday brought dazzling lights around each of the four city gates: North, South, East, and West. The parade on Saturday morning was the main spectacle, with floats, marching bands, dancers, lady boys, and beauty queens strolling around the river. The grandest array of flowers was at Buak Hard park, where droves of people flocked to take photos among the roses and wildflowers of every type.
Try to visit Chiang Mai during the holiday season for a cheerful time. You can also visit during Songkran, Thai New Years, where everyone sprays each other with water for an entire week mid-April. Time to start planning a trip for next year!
