beaches

11 Free Things to Do on your Big Sur Drive in California

Are you heading on a Big Sur drive soon? Do you love waterfalls, hiking, beaches, wildlife…

…and being out of contact from the rest of the world?

Then read on because I am about to share my secrets with you, fellow budget traveler, with these 11 free things to do along the remote coast of Big Sur, California.

I’m a California native who has driven allll the way up and down our large state (from Mexico to Oregon and back) several times - both on my own and with friends.

I’ve written this article from my own recent experience doing the Big Sur drive post-pandemic with a friend. The untouched beach bluffs that greet you with a different personality every morning remain a photographer’s dream!

Note: Before you hit up these free things to do on your Big Sur drive, you absolutely need to make sure you have maps downloaded offline since the internet will not work at all on this remote coast. You can use the free app maps.me to download the map of California. Make sure you save all these locations beforehand, so you have all the hiking trails and campsite locations. You’ll need them.

Now, get ready to hit the road!

view of the pacific ocean from big sur drive on highway

Your Big Sur drive is the place to unplug, get lost, and find your spirit along the unforgiving coastline.

The Mystical Big Sur drive

Dark, brooding beaches exist without another pair of footprints in sight.

Purple sand sprawls next to thick sea stars chilling on rocks, while miniature crabs scuttle about.

Sparkling lime waterfalls surprise hikers at the end of miles and miles of overgrown forest trails.

And bushels of poison oak claw at you from every corner.

I spent 5 days with no cell service exploring the longest stretch of undisturbed coast in the United States: Big Sur, California.

90 miles along Pacific Coast Highway 1 in Central California from Carmel to San Simeon brims of rocky beaches with character and redwood mountains so steep they’ll bang up any car smaller than a Jeep.

Upon arrival, it is easy to understand why Big Sur glitters majestic.

For rugged campers or backpackers, the solitude experienced on the Big Sur drive is a dream. You must have an offline map to find your way around the less-visited landscape, while families will probably stick to the state parks.

Besides privacy, the preservation of the area maintains that Big Sur will always stay true; the flora and fauna will (hopefully) continue to flourish, and it gives people a chance to see how beautiful California would be without infrastructure.

rocky yellow beach with blue water and sky

Lastly, Big Sur wows due to its affordability. If you are craving a getaway and know how to pitch a tent, you can visit Big Sur for the price of food and gas.

I will note that state parks charge $10 for cars, but there are ways to get in free as well which I will detail below.

Ok Wolfette, here are 11 free things to do on your Big Sur drive in California, from a local:

11. Observe the Elephant Seals in San Simeon

Location on Google Maps: Elephant Seal Vista Point

elephant seals lying down on beach shore

Those aren’t rocks… they’re elephant seals laying down!

Our first Southern stop on the way to Big Sur proper was an unexpected turn at the Elephant Seal viewing area in San Simeon.

Don’t let the mellow photo fool you. These elephant seals play-fought in the water together and bounced along the shores until we experienced cuteness overload.

Yes, it’s free like everything else on this list. You’ll just stop on the side of the highway for your up close encounters with wildlife.

10.  Swim at gorgeous Salmon Creek Falls

Location on Google Maps: Salmon Creek Trailhead

Hiking distance: 0.3 miles

waterfall at salmon creek falls

Wow! These gorgeous, green falls at Salmon Creek reside just a short walk from highway 1, so no strenuous hiking is involved.

Keep an eye out as you map your Big Sur drive, because you’ll have to quickly park at the side of the road (no parking lot) on a busy bend of highway.

Wade, swim, and jump in the emerald pool to cool off. If you desire a longer hike, you can continue up the trail to Upper Salmon Creek Falls, about 5 miles round trip.

9. Slide down Ragged Point and enjoy a private beach

Location on Google Maps: Ragged Point Inn & Resort

Hiking distance: 0.8 miles

Ragged Point is a steep hike that leads you down the cliff to a gorgeous, quiet sandy beach where you will probably be alone, due to the nature of the trail.

You will park in the same parking lot as Ragged Point Inn & Resort, with the trailhead behind the hotel.

To make the descent safely, you’ll want athletic shoes with traction since the loose dirt tended to slide underneath your feet.

We had fun stomping and jumping around the round rocks at the bottom and finding our own hideaways for about an hour.

8. Discover hidden Redwood trees at Redwood Gulch

Location on Google Maps: Nathaniel Owings Memorial Redwood Grove

Hiking distance: 0.6 miles

We missed the stop at Redwood Gulch, because no sign warned us along the road. After turning around and going back to the coordinates of the unmarked turnoff, we spotted a thin beige path.

This unassuming path led us to the location of the southernmost Redwood trees, lining a watering hole perfect for a skinny dip.

rocky shells on forest ground

The humble falls and musky forest seemed to be plucked out of a fairytale. (Any 90’s babies remember the cartoon forest nymph, Fern Gully?).

7. Slink in the caves at Sand Dollar Beach

Location on Google Maps: Sand Dollar Beach

Sand Dollar Beach might possibly be our favorite beach in California.

We discovered several spacious caves on the edge of the beach, large enough to walk around in and relax. The caves resembled secret auditoriums, a shaded paradise away from the world while we lazily peered out at the blue horizon.

In addition to private caves, the beauty and adventure lured us in. The water appeared so clear and pristine that you could see each grain of sand beside your toes. The sky reflected off the sand, projecting an infinite sapphire vortex.

To avoid any fees, simply park on the street outside of the parking lot.

6. Camp above the clouds

Location: Hidden (Details below)

camping above the clouds in big sur

Big Sur’s low-brewing clouds prove eerily reminiscent of a James Bond film, paired with boosted high mountains that call in the heavens.

Although most official campgrounds were listed around $40-$70 per night, you can save the cash and camp for free in several astounding locations throughout Big Sur.

Instead of giving away all the secrets here and exposing the spots, I recommend you use the apps and websites Campendium, Boondocking, or freecampsites.net to check out the updated campsites that other reviewers have listed. These are the tools I always use on my primitive camping journey, along with maps.me.

A lot of these camp spots require a four-wheel drive vehicle to reach them (we learned the hard way) and may be unofficial, but they will usually be free.

Other non-free options include looking on Hipcamp (like Airbnb, but for camping) or camping within the state parks and official campgrounds (Kirk Creek campground has an awesome view!).

5.  Take a magical hike along Mill Creek

Location on Google Maps: Mill Creek Trailhead

Hiking distance: 2.3 miles

Zip down the mile-or-so-long trail to quiet Mill Creek, where you can walk-in camp or just chill by the creek in a forest-flooded daze.

The forest quickly transformed into pages of a storybook: illustrations depicted sleeping wood, golden sunlight peaking through the standing beauties, and viney grottos to soak in.

We plummeted to the bottom of the valley and turned left along the creek, following the water’s way to increase the trail length. Just watch out for poison oak and snakes along the way (and bring warm clothes for after that icy fresh bath, even in Summer.)

4. Prance in purple sand at northern beaches

Location on Google Maps: Andrew Molera Beach or Pfieffer Beach

purple sand bluffs at andrew molera beach

Our Big Sur drive displayed a rainbow of colors, from purple sand to green forests, blue skies, and orange Golden poppies.

The rose tinted bluffs, like in the photo above, scatter purple sand along Pfeiffer and Andrew Molera beaches.

You’ll have to visit the beach to find the most concentrated areas, where the sand is literally bright violet.

3. Tread in the Big Sur River

Location on Google Maps: Big Sur River Gorge

Our beloved sun’s UV rays don’t take the day off even when the weather is overcast, so we sought a brief whisper of shade along the Big Sur River.

The River Gorge forms a swimming hole in crystal clear pools after a mellow trail.

2. Visit the renowned state parks

Seeking a remote escape, travelers can receive free hugs from the wildflowers, arbors, and aquatic bodies that live in Big Sur’s state parks.

Winding miles and miles of trails in these state parks each tell their own chapter in Big Sur’s anthology.

golden poppies in front of ocean on big sur drive

While most of the parks are $10 for cars to park, you can instead park on highway 1 and enter them for free on foot (except for Limekiln: no walk-ins).

If you do decide to purchase the $10 parking pass for any of the following parks, the pass is valid for any of the other parks on the same day - essentially free.

Limekiln State Park

Location on Google Maps: Limekiln State Park

Arrive before 10AM to get a parking spot in this southern state park.

Skip over to Limekiln Creek Falls for a dreamy staircase of cascades, and follow along peaceful Hare Creek for a 2 mile nature walk.

Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park

Location on Google Maps: Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park

The Pfeiffer Falls and Valley View combination route guided us to a modest-falling spout, though nonetheless enchanting, and a sunny lookout to reward our sweaty backs at the top.

The most well-rounded journey is Buzzard’s Roost trail, a spellbinding path sprinkled with young redwoods, tricky hills, and the Big Sur River welcoming you at the front door.

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park

Location on Google Maps: Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park

The picturesque McWay Falls graces postcards and magnets as an icon of Big Sur proper.

Besides the falls that tumble onto a scenic, teal beach, the park charms with a secluded silver bay and cliff-hanging trails.

Andrew Molera State Park

Location on Google Maps: Andrew Molera State Park

Combine the Beaches (easy), Bluffs (moderate), and Ridge (strenuous) trails for a heart-beating 8-mile adventure, or simply pick one to wander along.

If the fog clears out along the Ridge trail, you’ll get a panoramic view of baby blue waters among the fragrant foliage — though you’ll have to climb dozens of flights to earn it.

For a less mobile day, indulge in pure beach access at Molera Point.

1. Pick your own seascape spot for an epic vista picnic

Location: Anywhere there’s a turnoff

foamy shoreline on big sur drive

The Big Sur drive is full of epic views like these, with no one else around…

Sometimes, the most precious pleasures are the freedoms you create yourself.

Roll up a quilt and tuck in sandwiches, muffins and hot coffee. Simmer over to a turnoff on the coastal highway, and enjoy a picnic overlooking one of the last natural places in the world.


hi wolfette, i’m molly

Travel is a spiritual experience for me, especially when adventuring solo.

After visiting 6 continents on my own, I’ve dedicated this project to assisting other Lone Wolfettes on their journeys.

I hope my travel guides help you find the same joy, connection, and empowerment that exploring our planet has given me.


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Unbelievable Natural Wonders of Nusa Penida, Indonesia

The treacherous climbs and descents absolutely terrified me, but they lead to the most beautiful beaches in the world on Nusa Penida, Indonesia.

You may have seen pictures of these remarkable locations on social media (that of course omit how ridiculous the hikes are), yet these spots prove even more epic in person.

Just eastern neighbors to Bali and not nearly as commercially developed, the small island of Nusa Penida has narrow roads full of character that speak stories. Many residents have stayed here their entire lives.

I zoomed past new houses being hand built (and probably stayed in one), but most of the charm of Nusa Penida is in its original untouched landscape that captivates photographers and people around the world.

Here are (more than) 6 unbelievable places to visit in Nusa Penida.

6.  Broken Beach and Angel’s Billabong

Broken Beach

Broken Beach and Angel’s Billabong are located right next to each other on the coastal cliffs.

You can walk from one stunning beauty to the other within five minutes and take the coveted selfie or fifty.  Both carved out treasures are just as gorgeous in person and worth a brief visit, but you cannot swim or walk down to either beach.

Be careful at Angel’s Billabong, however, as several tourists have tragically passed away from standing too close to the edge trying to get a risky photo right before dangerous waves came crashing on to the shoreline.

5.  Thousand Islands Viewpoint

While you can’t actually spot 1,000 islands, you are standing on a mini island yourself as you look out to the vast blue and turquoise waters that surround you with floating cliffs.

Thousand Islands Viewpoint will be your first workout with 10 minutes of steep steps up the mountain on the way back. You can pay to sit in those cute swings or cabanas for a photo op, but you don’t need it - the view is already incredible.

4.  Tembeling Beach and Forest

The wildest motorbike ride down into the forest led to Tembeling Beach and Forest, where several jewels shine hidden under the shaded foliage of the mountain.

The first gem is an emerald pool where devils can dare to jump from various levels into the deep. I only jumped off the lowest level, about 12 feet, scared to my wits. So worth it!

After cooling off in the pool, make your way down stone steps to a cave full of mysteriously stacked rocks, a natural rock infinity pool, and the beach.

3.  Diamond Beach and Atuh Beach

All the way on less traveled east side of Nusa Penida lies the precious coasts of Diamond Beach and Atuh Beach, situated on opposite sides of a cliff.

Laced between the two beaches, it seriously feels like you are standing on the edge of the earth.

Atuh beach felt shallow and shelled with eateries and lounge chairs, while Diamond Beach hid behind sloshed choppy waves and shrouded cliff walls.

Though the days I visited burst dark clouds and thunderstorms since March deemed the end of the rainy season, each beach blew my mind with the natural colors and gorgeous shape of the earth.

2. Kelingking Beach

The steepest hike of all 6 on this list, the 45 minute way down to Kelingking Beach starts out chill, and gets sketchy really fast. My heart raced as the jagged gravel stairs began to sprawl straight down.

Despite the heights, the picturesque waters truly glimmer aqua and dazzle deep blue. Kelingking resembles a tyrannosaurus rex floating heavenly between sky and water.

The driver that dropped me off made me promise I would not swim in the water because the current was too dangerous. He wasn’t kidding - the aggressive waves roared high and banged on to the shore sharp and strong. I had to hold on to my suit just standing on the shore…

1.  Manta Point

Not my photo - I was too busy scuba diving for only the second time! Try Karma Diving in Nusa Penida.

A last minute decision to splurge on scuba diving with 9 foot manta rays proved to be the unexpected highlight of the entire trip - and well worth the expense, even for a backpacker.

You don’t need a diver’s certification to witness these majestic beings playing 40 feet down in the underwater jungle. Plunging so close to a dozen manta rays at Manta Point flipped my world upside down, leaving this unbelievable natural wonder the best thing to do in Nusa Penida.

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From the West to the East… gorgeous views and dangerous waters categorized a stormy, thrilling excursion in Nusa Penida.

Gili Air, Indonesia: Tiny Island, Big Heart

Come gather around the bonfire, as I am going to tell you a story about a tiny island that lies in the South Seas of the Pacific Ocean, a magical place I will always remember: Gili Air.

A small village with a big heart, Gili Air is an enigma.  To give you an idea of how absolutely miniscule the island is - it is undetectable on a map of Indonesia, and you can stroll around the entire oblong perimeter in under two hours. No cars traverse the narrow dirt roads; instead, people get around by foot or bicycle.  You will cross paths with a few horse and buggies, but these are primarily a tourist attraction.

“Why are you going to Gili Air?” fellow travelers would ask me, bewildered.  Their curiosity stems from the notion that the island of Gili T is the bigger and better destination, known for its wild parties and highly developed area.  Though it may be true that Gili T leads the pack in tourism – heck, Gili Air did not even have ATMs until a couple years ago – my response to the inquirers is simple: I like to take the path less traveled by.

I will reveal why this tropical key is one of the best-kept-secrets – from psychedelic nights to emotional experiences in an oasis hidden from the world – but first, some brief background. 

Gili Air is one of three major Gili Islands along with Gili T (short for Trawangan) and Gili Meno.  Gili means “small island” in Sasak language and Air means “water”.  Many travelers are unaware there are actually more gilis, about 26 in total, but most of these are too small to be habitable.  The main trio rests next to the larger neighboring land of Lombok, a 10-minute boat ride away across teal waters, where many local workers commute from each day. Eager tourists usually ferry from Bali, about two hours west on the high-speed boat.

While I felt like a nosy tourist snapping photos in Indonesian’s gorgeous destinations of Bali and Nusa Penida (how could you not?), the moment I arrived in Gili Air and stepped knee-deep in clear turquoise saltwater to deboard the boat, I was immediately greeted with a warm welcome – and would soon become treated like family.

Don’t Worry, Be Happy

With only around a couple thousand people on the island at a time, there are less people on Gili Air than there were students at my high school.  But unlike memories of public high school in Los Angeles, the people on Gili Air are warm, friendly and kind (just being real here).   

You begin to see the same people around on the island, and if you are an open book, you get to know everyone on a first-name basis.  I’m talking about the workers, whether they are restaurant owners, tour operators, shop clerks, beach club bartenders… they all greeted me with genuine smiles and conversations that ran deeper than the basic questions or feigned interest you often contend with while traveling in Asia.  Honestly, most locals seemed just as interested to meet you as you were to meet them. 

If the song “Don’t Worry, Be Happy” was a place, Gili Air would be it.  Not only did I hear that iconic song a lot… but the dozens of folks I met during my stay were chiller than chill.  There are plenty of exciting activities to do in the gilis, which I’ll get into later, but the vibes are mellow on Gili Air, to the point where I feel like I could live there.  Everyone is living the slow life.

Literally. 

“Slow down, woman!” my new friend “G” playfully barked at me the first night I arrived.  I had been frantically asking too many questions, after discovering I was lucky enough to visit during the monthly full moon party.  When are we going to go to the party?  Should we go now to check it out?  It says it started at 5PM.  What should I bring?  Are you guys all coming?  

Although I had left my busy hometown of L.A. two months prior, I still emanated the anxious fervor of an urbanite.  I paused, stopped to actually breathe, and realized it’s true – that this constant rushing is silly. Why am I running to the beach, as if it is going to suddenly going to disappear?  It makes sense to get caught up in this busybody style when you are traveling, since you are always trying to catch a plane, a boat, a train, a tour, a check out time… I’m exhausted just writing about it. 

By the way, if you’re wondering, the ‘woman’ part of his request was not derogatory, but one of those lost-in-translation moments.  We say “hey, man” as a friendly term in English, so he assumed the same goes for a woman.

Nevertheless, I adopted the phrase, and repeated it to myself when I noticed I was rushing the rest of my trip: slow life.

Part of the Family

I’ll admit that it’s not sharp wit, unmatched charm, or ridiculously good looks that make it easy for me to become friends with people around the world, particularly on a remote island in Indonesia.

It’s my hula hoop.

Strutting down the busy beach boardwalk my first afternoon while trying not to get trampled by bikes or horse drawn carriages as I admired the rainbow-colored boats along the harbor, I stumbled upon a group of young folks that spied the gold circle hanging on my shoulder, and then heard the same comments that follow me anywhere else in the world:  Is that a hula hoop?  Show us what you’ve got!  

I twirled around the boardwalk like Frogger, the old arcade game where your frog character tries to hop across the street without getting squished by virtual cars, and after the dance was done, I made friends.  I decided to abandon my foolish “plans” (wherever I was going), and learned you don’t need plans on Gili Air. 

Our central hangout was the same place we met, on the beach outside Three Little Birds, Yancibey’s shop for hair wraps, dreadlocks, and handmade jewelry, fittingly named after the Bob Marley song.  I quickly learned this was the main spot where many people gathered, and my handful of friends turned into dozens over the next few days.

There was a painted wooden sign that hung in the shop, boasting “Free Smiles.”  That was true.  The laughs were abundant, too.

We sat on the makeshift benches, telling funny jokes to attract tourists to the shop, which really made us more friends than customers.  We savored juicy fish that was just caught, grilled and seasoned with the most delicious sambal (spicy sauce) – oh, how I would kill for that charred sea bass right now.  We spent evenings drinking rice wine, a locally brewed drink that smelled like sulfur, but I guzzled it down anyway as the boys played cards.  I answered questions about America that I found humorous, and we sang classic songs from western bands (Guns N Roses, Pink Floyd).  I met their families, went to their houses, and learned a few Indonesian words.  Several of my friends didn’t have cell phones… why would we need them?  We knew where everyone stayed, or hung out, on this tiny island in the Pacific.

And yes, we finally went to the party.

Psychedelic Parties

At the beach parties, goa trance echoed out from the DJ booth towards the ocean’s dark waves like a siren’s mystical song at sea.  Acid house, psytrance, techno and other house genres also sparked from the beachfront clubs, along with shooting neon lasers and colored strobe lights. 

If you have no idea what I am talking about, it’s all loud, speedy electronic music.  If you hate electronic music, you can always visit Gili Meno, the calmest island.  Gili T is party-heavy, while Gili Air is a sweet Goldilocks atmosphere in between the two.

I find it hilarious and embarrassing that, by habit, I imagined the parties to be at actual indoor bars or clubs.  Of course, the clubs were outside!  Popular beach clubs like Lucky’s or Legend were grand locations on the sand with a dance floor, beanbags, tables, bars, and plenty of festive, dancing people!

Despite the buzz from the Bintang lager, there are always little things that remind you where you are.  At one bar, I bought a room temperature beer, because I wanted a beer and there was a lack of ice.  Remember, you’re on a tropical island where everything is imported with shipments, and beach bars often chill drinks with portable coolers.  Read the room! 

Besides the music, why do I use the term psychedelic?  Well… there are magical mushrooms that pop up in different establishments.  They are illegal, but you can find them in the form of milkshakes, and trip out on the beach.

Fire spinners lit round wicks on strings ablaze and whirled them towards the starry sky. Locals and visitors from around the world chatted and clinked drinks together. And it turns out that the parties stretch much later than they claim to be, with the full moon event remaining just another night on Gili Air.

More Things to Do

A typical day on the island involves meandering through overgrown alleys towards the never-ending white sand beach and stopping in bamboo-built restaurants to huddle under shady enclosures, enjoying Indonesian fare like Nasi Goreng and Mie Goreng (fried rice and fried noodles) or Western delights (falafel pitas, cheeseburgers) over cold pineapple drinks. 

You can indulge in the common vacation pleasures, such as receiving a massage, relaxing at the bar, or getting inked at the bamboo tattoo shop.

However, you are on Gili Air!  Time to take a glass bottom boat tour, snorkel with huge turtles and underwater sculptures, scuba dive to vibrant reefs, island hop, or get wild with water sports.

I even took the public boat to the serene jungle in Lombok for a day, where we biked up the tree topped mountains to godly cascading waterfalls with no one else at the base.  My new friend Kiki showed me hidden natural swimming pools with multiple levels of turquoise falls where we waded in the strong sun. 

If you are in the Gilis I suggest you take the time to visit Lombok for a few days (or the other way around - fly into Lombok, and then visit the Gilis).  There are astoundingly less tourists there than in Bali, and Lombok blossoms a diverse bouquet of nature. I must certainly make a trip back to surf at the break, check out the famous pink sand beach, trek to the active volcano, and witness dramatic sunsets.

17,000 Islands

When I planned my trip to Gili Air, I only allotted myself a few days to explore, not knowing if I would grow bored because of its intimate size.  Of course, I was utterly wrong!  Yes, a few days are perfectly worth the excursion if you are short on time, but if you find yourself backpacking with no limits, I recommend booking a one-way ticket so you can chill for as long as you would like.

The magic of the Gilis is that once you get settled, you never want to leave.  This bright, loving, carefree, forgiving, colorful, majestic, wondrous place is built on a close-knit community, lustrous flora and friendly fauna, unique small businesses and a cohesive relationship with global travelers.

Indonesia is the largest archipelago in the world, composed of 17,000 islands of which 6000 are inhabited.  Yet I have only visited a handful of these islands, which is like going to the beach and only stomping one footprint into the sand before turning around.  It was an emotional experience to leave on the topsy boat back to Bali, but I know I have more memories to make near the fanciful waters of the Gili Islands.

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3 Magical Cities to Visit in Central Vietnam

White sand beaches, ancient ruins, and magnificent architecture – this is just the tip of the palm tree when it comes to Central Vietnam’s highlights.

The dynamic region brings a beautiful blend of North and South dialects, powerful history, and nature’s greatest wonders. 

Weather throughout the nation’s middle can be dramatically different than other parts of the country as the coast waxes and wanes across the Pacific.  One town can be rainy and cold while it can suddenly become sunny and warm minutes away!

So, where to dive into first? 

Between the major hubs of Hanoi in the North and Ho Chi Minh City in the South lie several charismatic towns that are worth the bus, train, or car trip.  You will breathe a swooning sigh when exploring these small towns and intimate neighborhoods, that make you feel like a local more than a tourist. 

Though I have not had the privilege to greet every city along the way, these three unforgettable destinations waved a magical mark while traveling throughout this beautiful country. 

Phong Nha

A cute village around an hour inland of Dong Hoi, Phong Nha’s main attraction is the mystifying Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park.  Whether you are a serious trekker looking for a 4-day descent into the world’s largest caves (probably bigger than your hometown), or a relaxed traveler looking for an equally stunning nature experience, you will find your heart’s desire in Phong Nha.

There are dry caves you can walk through, wet caves that require a boat or kayak, and even dark caves where you can zipline!  Even if you are not a fanatic cave dweller, bat or spider enthusiast, you and your whole family will be awe-struck by the million-year-old geological formations in these enormous, colorful caves.  It feels like you entire a time machine and are transported to another planet.

We are fortunate to be able to visit the caves, as many were not open to the public until the 1990’s, when the local cities decided to share this gift to the world.  For more information on the cave experiences, look into the cave systems of Tu Lan, Hang En, Paradise Cave (Hang Thien Duong), Tien Son, or Hang Son Doong.  The most popular attractions you can simply show up to, while the more strenuous tours (climbing, rappelling, camping) may require several months booking in advance.

Besides these underground enigmas, Phong Nha is a great escape from the city to kilometers and kilometers of rich landscapes, wild flora and fauna, river havens, and peaceful rice fields.  The simple life.  This quiet town is the perfect place to ride a motorbike for the first time, to embark on an epic hike towards the heavenly mountains, to see porcupines at peacocks at the botanical gardens, or to fish along the river, if that’s your jam.  Just writing about the experience makes me fall in love all over again!

Hue

Positioned with ancient allure, Hue is the city that will enchant you.

The Imperial Citadel is the main attraction of Hue, where Emperors throughout history resided.  Within these magnificent grounds are impeccably coiffed gardens, preserved ancient ruins, historical buildings and holy spaces. 

The intricately designed grounds can take up to a full day to explore if you visit everything, and there are photo-worthy views with every step.

Beyond the Imperial City, the Royal Tombs of each Emperor are spread out through the town, again with impeccable architecture that draws visitors from around the world.

Gorgeous bridges and rivers surround Hue – how about a dragon boat ride at sunset?

Most of the city’s attractions are walkable, which brings me to the next best feature of Hue – the New City.  The streets and back alleys come to life at night, with wild nightlife and every kind of cuisine imaginable - something rare to find in Southeast Asia.  I mean, I didn’t travel all the way from California to go to a 50’s American Diner in the middle of Central Vietnam (complete with doo-wop tunes, barstool countertops and all), but the folks in Hue spin their own take on different world cultures in a cheeky way.

The New City attracts travelers from all over, but it doesn’t get overly crowded or touristy, even on the neon-sign streets and rooftop clubs.  Hue is a hidden gem that showcases the beautiful blend of Old and New generations in evolving Vietnam in a lighthearted way.


Hoi An

After jam-packed days of traveling, tours, and treks throughout the country, Hoi An was the most relaxing part of my trip, and ended up being my favorite stop.  But don’t get the wrong idea – the quiet town south of busy Da Nang is still filled with plenty to do, see, and taste.

Hoi An is known for its Ancient City, with brightly painted yellow and red walls, cobblestone pathways and historical landmarks like the Japanese Covered Bridge

In the day, colorful paddle boats line the lazy river, a picturesque backdrop giving hints of old Vietnam.  At night, the sleepy river is full of shining lanterns that you can release to the spirits for good luck and happiness.

Outside of the main areas, the roads are slow enough to ride bicycles (or a motorbike) to see the miles of rice paddies with ox roaming the land.  Yes, you will see rice paddies throughout Asia, but make sure to stop in Hoi An for random vegetable villages, secret smoothie shops, and hammock-hanging lounges along the way.

But my favorite feature of all?  The beach!

We stayed by An Bang Beach, smooth with soft white sand, warm water waves and lined with restaurants that offer freshly caught seafood.  Oysters, clams, mussels, lobster – you will find it all at this Pacific Coast jewel.  The best dish I had in Asia so far was a sweet and savory seafood wonton crisp in a mom and pop shop one street before the shore… like a tangy ceviche!

Bonus: My Son Sanctuary

Technically not part of Hoi An, but one day trip under an hour from the city worth visiting is My Son Sanctuary, a UNESCO heritage site of ancient Champa ruins from the 7th to 13th centuries.  These Hindu ruins are often dubbed “a smaller Angkor Wat”, the famous site in Siem Reap, Cambodia.

My Son Sanctuary was a rich cultural experience, and you can peruse the on-site museum before checking out the ruins to learn of the symbolism and significance, or take a group tour.  Personally, we preferred not taking the group tour so that you have less people in your photos, and more time to linger at each section of the ruins.

How to Get to these Magic Places

None of the cities listed have airports, which makes them gems less discovered, so you will have to take transportation by land.  You will have to fly in to Dong Hoi and start from the North, or fly into Da Nang in the South.

Make sure to book train tickets in advance to guarantee transportation that works with your schedule. 

My travel partner and I did not book in advance and all the trains were full, so we had to split the cost of a private driver between two people. 

Fortunately, there were definitely advantages to having a private driver: shorter driving time, amenities like air conditioning, Wi-Fi, and even a microphone for karaoke (?!), as well as being able to stop along the way at mystical spots like Lang Co Lagoon. That being said, if you are on a strict budget you will want to book the train or bus which are about a fourth of the cost of private cars.

If you take a private car between Hue and Hoi An, take a rest stop at the ethereal Lang Co Lagoon.

Gallery

A glimpse of the cultural and historical gold mines in these less-touristy communities.

Phong Nha

Hue

Hoi An

My Son Sanctuary