White sand beaches, ancient ruins, and magnificent architecture – this is just the tip of the palm tree when it comes to Central Vietnam’s highlights.
The dynamic region brings a beautiful blend of North and South dialects, powerful history, and nature’s greatest wonders.
Weather throughout the nation’s middle can be dramatically different than other parts of the country as the coast waxes and wanes across the Pacific. One town can be rainy and cold while it can suddenly become sunny and warm minutes away!
So, where to dive into first?
Between the major hubs of Hanoi in the North and Ho Chi Minh City in the South lie several charismatic towns that are worth the bus, train, or car trip. You will breathe a swooning sigh when exploring these small towns and intimate neighborhoods, that make you feel like a local more than a tourist.
Though I have not had the privilege to greet every city along the way, these three unforgettable destinations waved a magical mark while traveling throughout this beautiful country.
Phong Nha
A cute village around an hour inland of Dong Hoi, Phong Nha’s main attraction is the mystifying Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. Whether you are a serious trekker looking for a 4-day descent into the world’s largest caves (probably bigger than your hometown), or a relaxed traveler looking for an equally stunning nature experience, you will find your heart’s desire in Phong Nha.
There are dry caves you can walk through, wet caves that require a boat or kayak, and even dark caves where you can zipline! Even if you are not a fanatic cave dweller, bat or spider enthusiast, you and your whole family will be awe-struck by the million-year-old geological formations in these enormous, colorful caves. It feels like you entire a time machine and are transported to another planet.
We are fortunate to be able to visit the caves, as many were not open to the public until the 1990’s, when the local cities decided to share this gift to the world. For more information on the cave experiences, look into the cave systems of Tu Lan, Hang En, Paradise Cave (Hang Thien Duong), Tien Son, or Hang Son Doong. The most popular attractions you can simply show up to, while the more strenuous tours (climbing, rappelling, camping) may require several months booking in advance.
Besides these underground enigmas, Phong Nha is a great escape from the city to kilometers and kilometers of rich landscapes, wild flora and fauna, river havens, and peaceful rice fields. The simple life. This quiet town is the perfect place to ride a motorbike for the first time, to embark on an epic hike towards the heavenly mountains, to see porcupines at peacocks at the botanical gardens, or to fish along the river, if that’s your jam. Just writing about the experience makes me fall in love all over again!
Hue
Positioned with ancient allure, Hue is the city that will enchant you.
The Imperial Citadel is the main attraction of Hue, where Emperors throughout history resided. Within these magnificent grounds are impeccably coiffed gardens, preserved ancient ruins, historical buildings and holy spaces.
The intricately designed grounds can take up to a full day to explore if you visit everything, and there are photo-worthy views with every step.
Beyond the Imperial City, the Royal Tombs of each Emperor are spread out through the town, again with impeccable architecture that draws visitors from around the world.
Gorgeous bridges and rivers surround Hue – how about a dragon boat ride at sunset?
Most of the city’s attractions are walkable, which brings me to the next best feature of Hue – the New City. The streets and back alleys come to life at night, with wild nightlife and every kind of cuisine imaginable - something rare to find in Southeast Asia. I mean, I didn’t travel all the way from California to go to a 50’s American Diner in the middle of Central Vietnam (complete with doo-wop tunes, barstool countertops and all), but the folks in Hue spin their own take on different world cultures in a cheeky way.
The New City attracts travelers from all over, but it doesn’t get overly crowded or touristy, even on the neon-sign streets and rooftop clubs. Hue is a hidden gem that showcases the beautiful blend of Old and New generations in evolving Vietnam in a lighthearted way.
Hoi An
After jam-packed days of traveling, tours, and treks throughout the country, Hoi An was the most relaxing part of my trip, and ended up being my favorite stop. But don’t get the wrong idea – the quiet town south of busy Da Nang is still filled with plenty to do, see, and taste.
Hoi An is known for its Ancient City, with brightly painted yellow and red walls, cobblestone pathways and historical landmarks like the Japanese Covered Bridge.
In the day, colorful paddle boats line the lazy river, a picturesque backdrop giving hints of old Vietnam. At night, the sleepy river is full of shining lanterns that you can release to the spirits for good luck and happiness.
Outside of the main areas, the roads are slow enough to ride bicycles (or a motorbike) to see the miles of rice paddies with ox roaming the land. Yes, you will see rice paddies throughout Asia, but make sure to stop in Hoi An for random vegetable villages, secret smoothie shops, and hammock-hanging lounges along the way.
But my favorite feature of all? The beach!
We stayed by An Bang Beach, smooth with soft white sand, warm water waves and lined with restaurants that offer freshly caught seafood. Oysters, clams, mussels, lobster – you will find it all at this Pacific Coast jewel. The best dish I had in Asia so far was a sweet and savory seafood wonton crisp in a mom and pop shop one street before the shore… like a tangy ceviche!
Bonus: My Son Sanctuary
Technically not part of Hoi An, but one day trip under an hour from the city worth visiting is My Son Sanctuary, a UNESCO heritage site of ancient Champa ruins from the 7th to 13th centuries. These Hindu ruins are often dubbed “a smaller Angkor Wat”, the famous site in Siem Reap, Cambodia.
My Son Sanctuary was a rich cultural experience, and you can peruse the on-site museum before checking out the ruins to learn of the symbolism and significance, or take a group tour. Personally, we preferred not taking the group tour so that you have less people in your photos, and more time to linger at each section of the ruins.
How to Get to these Magic Places
None of the cities listed have airports, which makes them gems less discovered, so you will have to take transportation by land. You will have to fly in to Dong Hoi and start from the North, or fly into Da Nang in the South.
Make sure to book train tickets in advance to guarantee transportation that works with your schedule.
My travel partner and I did not book in advance and all the trains were full, so we had to split the cost of a private driver between two people.
Fortunately, there were definitely advantages to having a private driver: shorter driving time, amenities like air conditioning, Wi-Fi, and even a microphone for karaoke (?!), as well as being able to stop along the way at mystical spots like Lang Co Lagoon. That being said, if you are on a strict budget you will want to book the train or bus which are about a fourth of the cost of private cars.
If you take a private car between Hue and Hoi An, take a rest stop at the ethereal Lang Co Lagoon.
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A glimpse of the cultural and historical gold mines in these less-touristy communities.
