temples

What I Wish I Knew Before Visiting Doi Suthep, Thailand

If you are visiting Chiang Mai, Thailand’s second largest city to Bangkok, you will most likely pay a visit to the gold temple on the hill: Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, and the surrounding area.  However, before you go blindly visit the sacred site like I did, take heed of these tips to make your day efficient. 

I had a fantastic time regardless, with the dripping-gold monuments almost blinding me, and the views I will truly never forget.

Doi Suthep is the name of the mountain, not the temple.

This one was a rookie mistake on my part, but it resulted in unexpected beautiful scenery, so I can’t complain. 

If you search “Doi Suthep” in your GPS, you will end up driving for a while up windy roads in the forest.  When we got to a one-way road, we started to grow suspicious.  Finally, Google Maps told us, “You have arrived!” in the middle of the forest. 

Although Doi Suthep is the colloquial abbreviation that everyone uses when discussing the landmark, the full name of the temple is Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep.  The error sent us about 30 minutes past the real location, but the cool breeze up in the mountains and gorgeous sun rays peaking through the trees was a refreshing break from the hot and dry city level anyhow.

Doi Suthep mountain is 5,500 feet (1,676 meters) high and looks over Chiang Mai.

The dress code at Bhubing Palace is extraordinarily formal.

If you have entered temples before, you know the basics of covering your knees, shoulders, and taking off your shoes.  But Bhubing Palace, the next stop down the road for many travelers, has a notoriously formal dress code.

Both men and women must wear thick clothing (my top was deemed too see-through) that basically goes down to the ankles, with tops that have longer sleeves.  Most people in 90 degree heat are not walking around covered head to toe, so fortunately there are shops outside the palace that rents clothing for a price equivalent to $1 USD per clothing item, plus a deposit. 

However, you might not get to choose your outfit, with resulted in this garish colored garb I was stuck to parade around with!

Half of the year, you cannot even enter the Palace. But they will still sell you a ticket.

After succumbing to the elegant traditional wardrobe (love the style; I just didn’t prefer the colors), we bought tickets to Bhubing Palace for around $3 USD each, only to walk around the grounds and find out - along with other confused foreigners - that we were only allowed to see the royal gardens.

The palace is the royal winter residence of the Thai Royal Family.  Therefore, during the winter months, you cannot enter the enticing palace, but you may view the many acres of exotic flowers and plants, charismatic trees, sparkling reservoir, and sloping hillsides, which I admit were quite impressive.  I only wish that the ticket office let us know before purchasing tickets.

If anyone asks, I had the best time. Remember, "whoever defames, insults or threatens the King, the Queen, the Heir-apparent or the Regent, shall be punished with imprisonment of three to fifteen years."

Epic waterfalls are near the temple; you can see one the same day.

Save on transportation costs and swim at gushing waterfalls near Doi Suthep in the same day.  I wish I visited one of these when I made the 40-minute trip to Doi Suthep, but ended up checking them out on different days.

The following waterfalls are near the Doi Suthep area west of Chiang Mai, and you will only need a couple hours at each one: 

Mae Sa Waterfall – 10 levels of pools, with swimming and plenty of room to picnic.

Monthathan Waterfall – located inside Doi Suthep-Pui National Park with a swimming hole and multiple levels.

Huay Kaew Waterfall – Short walking trail in a picturesque setting, but usually only flowing during rainy season or right after.

Mae Sa waterfall has 10 levels of swimming pools. Shh… the top one is the best.

There are often police checkpoints on the way to Doi Suthep, checking for your international driver’s license.

Being a popular tourist attraction, you are likely to hit a checkpoint leaving Chiang Mai if you are driving.  If you don’t have an international license, the fine will be about $15 USD.  They pull you over, charge the fine, and you are on your way in a minute, so it’s not a huge deal.  I believe after this ticket, you can drive for another 3 days before being fined again, but no guarantees with Thai police.

Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep’s gold-latent interior, breathtaking views, and new construction is indeed stunning.

Is the famous temple worth the hype?  In my opinion, yes!  Though we had visited many, many, many other temples in Southeast Asia, this one is close to the city and definitely worth visiting if you are in Chiang Mai.

…Just get ready for the gargantuan, exhausting staircase to get to the top.  

Happy travels!

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Hidden Highlights of Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

For many travelers who fly into Vietnam, the metropolis of Ho Chi Minh City is the launching point to start their journey in the South.  While plenty of information exists regarding the city’s war-wrenched history, the top cultural attractions, and why locals still call the center by its former name of Saigon, this article will touch on the alternative favorites that may have fallen below the radar.  What did I truly love about this city, and how did it win me over?

First, a quick note.  Before I knew much about Vietnam, my mind imagined jungle vibes, wildlife, and boat rides.  I am elated to share that all these notions were true throughout the diverse country!  However, what I also found in the needle-narrow alleyways of the city, in the outskirts of the districts, and beyond any major attractions were the following hidden highlights, doused in a strong dose of personality, charm and mystique.

The Rush of the Streets

Not for the faint of heart, the streets of Saigon are a real thrill.  Well, if you’re the type that loves the adrenaline rush of a rollercoaster or racecar, you will enjoy it – others may not!  Either way, exercise caution on these streets. 

The streets are lawless, meaning basically anything goes.  (Mom, you should stop reading now).  Traveling the opposite direction headfirst into traffic? Our drivers risked it. Multiple vehicles racing beside each other in one lane?  Normal.  Any sort of dividing lines, signs, or traffic lights? Forget about it! 

Hopping on the back of a motorbike became a devilish thrill to me.  I actually looked forward to calling Grab bikes (an Asia alternative to Uber rideshare).  I can’t say you won’t get hurt, as street accidents are the leading injury in Saigon, but you may as well trust these drivers, as they do this every day. 

Even crossing the street on foot was a rush as there are rarely traffic lights for pedestrians, so you must walk into the direct path of hundreds of motorbikes that seem to magically maneuver around you at the last possible second  As a local told me as he was walking into the mouth of the madness… “Just go!”

Festive Celebrations

This one was a complete coincidence, as our trip plans kept getting pushed back due to scheduling, but we happened to visit Vietnam during Tet Festival, or Vietnamese New Years.  Lucky lucky! Because of this fluke, we had the privilege of celebrating with the city during the most joyful time of the year. 

Colorful flowers, banners, flags and over-the-top décor lined the streets and downtown squares for weeks.  At night, illuminating lights adorned every hotel, restaurant, and shop, just like Westerners do for Christmas.  We witnessed lion dancers, street performers, and electric nightlife throughout the holiday. 

Beds of flowers and creatures adorn Ho Chi Minh Square during the weekend of Tet Festival 2020.

The Tet Holiday lasts over a week, and keep in mind that prices will be slightly higher if booking last minute for hotels or transportation, and many places will be closed.  However, in my opinion it was worth the trade off for such a special occasion.

While Tet takes place in January or February depending on the year, there are other celebrations throughout the year to plan your trip around, like the Mid Autumn Tet festival.

Thought-Provoking Temples

While trotting around Southeast Asia, you might amble through temples on every block, but hear me out – the most memorable temples that borrow your breath are the ones tucked away behind farmhouses, fields or alleyways… the ones that are not necessarily in the center of town or crammed with sardines of onlookers.  

Every religious temple is special and holy, but I found solace in the harmony of hidden pagodas such as “Ten Thousand Buddhas Temple” Chua Van Phat, which blocks your gaze from the street out in the urban area of District 5, or the “Floating Temple” Phu Chau (Mieu Noi) out in the boonies of the Go Vap District, that calls for a ferry ride after a 40 minute drive from the city.  The feather in your cap for going the extra mile to reach these sanctuaries is more space for prayer, reflection, and of course, private photos!

Ten Thousand Buddhas Pagoda is one temple worth a visit off the beaten path.

Fearless Food

Another fortuitous feature of Saigon is the hole-in-the-wall street food.  Often, the street vendors dish out fresher food than some restaurants or hotels.  Even more delectable is the friendly atmosphere – we were treated more like family members dining in the living room at certain establishments, while the nicer restaurants offered less appetizing service and felt impersonal. 

Every street in each district is lined with tempting tastes - I don’t savor a go-to spot to recommend, as I like to sample dewy new picks every meal.  My favorite dishes (though I eat primarily vegetarian) were eggplant clay pot, potato pancakes, stir-fried tofu noodles and fresh vegetables. 

And how could I forget… the exotic fruit here is deliciously sweet!

Thumping Techno

To my pleasant surprise, the Vietnamese love their techno, house, and electronic dance music.  Saigon sings its own recognizable sound (think big-room dance bangers, with occasional trap breakdowns and royal crooners) heard every day in nightclubs, bars, taxis, on TV, and in establishments.  The sound systems from even the smallest shops blasted so loud you could probably hear them from the Mekong Delta River!

I understand that this type of music is probably not everyone’s cup of tea, but for high energy music fans that desire a dance floor, you can tip tap to several throughout the diverse districts, not just the downtown areas of District 1.

Wandering around on foot allows for the most spontaneous days in this charismatic city.

Getting Lost on Foot

Don’t be afraid to get lost.  Turning down the “wrong” corner leads to finding surprise adventures. I recommend taking a cab to another district you haven’t explored yet (there are 19 in the city area), and then walk around to stumble upon treasures you could only run into on foot.

Troves we unearthed unexpectedly: a restaurant where each table sits in the water surrounded by koi fish.  A weathered theme park in the middle of Chinatown.  Shrines with signs detailing the repercussions of good and bad karma.  Temples with monks chanting.   Historical buildings with French architecture.  A sweet little old lady who spoke no English but grabbed our hands and guided us across a bridge.  Flute-playing street performers.  And a bamboo basket full more, but I will end the list with this one: my favorite treat after a humid 95-degree walk… sweet, cold coconut drinks!

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Barely a snippet of the topics discussed in this lively city.

My Favorite Things to Do Near Chiang Mai, Thailand

When planning my trip to Thailand, I had heard so much hype surrounding Chiang Mai and couldn’t wait to arrive in the Old City in the north. 

However, as with any big city, I was a bit lost upon landing.  What are the true highlights worth visiting, and what is simply a tourist trap? What is it that gives Chiang Mai its character?  Is it all about the Old City Square, or is it necessary to venture outside of the main town? 

What we discovered in this blazing hot urban hub was a little bit of both worlds: there are treasures within the popular center of town, but it is also essential to embark on a quest to the surrounding areas of Chiang Mai to grasp the full experience.

The modern new town is creative, full of rich art and music with a youthful flavor, juxtaposed with scattered remnants of old city temples and monuments.  Beyond the center, you will want to take day trips to discover national parks, waterfalls, elephant sanctuaries, mountains, and more.

Note: it is not necessary to stay in the higher-priced accommodations within the tourist-filled square; you can easily stay outside the river perimeter and simply walk everywhere for a more relaxed visit.

Though I am sure this list is equivalent to one drop of spice in a bowl of Tom Yum, here are my favorite things to do in Chiang Mai!

Visit the elephant sanctuaries.

Spending time with elephants was one of my two favorite days I spent near Chiang Mai.  It was a rewarding experience I will remember for the rest of my life.

We participated in Elephant Delight Project, which was run by Elephant Nature Park, one of the top ethical elephant sanctuaries in Thailand.  Rather than just visit the nature park with dozens of elephants, we opted for the project because it gave us the opportunity to spend time with a select few elephants in their natural habitat. We hiked with four elephants through the mountains, prepared their food and fed them, and bathed the mud off their backs in the river.

Each of these adorable elephants carried a majestic presence.  Females ranging in all ages, some were sweet, some were sassy, and all were so lovable.  They portrayed a silent power, a captivating aura that humbled me and felt close to them.  The mighty way they strolled, the slow movements, and their welcoming nature left me in a sense of awe that lasted all the way home, long after we had left.  In short, I truly missed them after feeling that closeness to these beautiful beings.

The entire day’s cost, which included pickup from our hotel in Chiang Mai and lunch, was about $80 USD.  If you are traveling on a budget… you should still, 100% choose to make this your splurge.  It was completely worth it.  After all, what are we traveling for other than life-changing moments like these?  Just make sure your sanctuary is a no-riding, ethical sanctuary.

Climb Sticky Waterfalls.

Other than the elephant sanctuary, my next favorite day in Chiang Mai was spent at Bua Tong Waterfalls, also known as Sticky Waterfalls.  The name references the strong grip of the rocks, so sticky that you can walk up and down them.  Just be careful not to step on the green rocks, as those are the slippery ones.  Ropes will guide you and give you balance while the water rushes down, cooling you off in the heat.

Photo by Khuong Tran

About three levels of rapids run from top to bottom, giving you a fun challenge.  Enjoy the pools at the bottom of each waterfall and take those epic pictures that make the falls look scarier than they are.  (I mean, it’s safe even for kids, but I’ll admit I was glad that I had travel health insurance!).

To get to Bua Tong Waterfalls, you must drive about 75 minutes north from the city center, but it is certainly worth the excursion.

Eat, drink, and enjoy performances at the night markets.

Unlike the previous bullet points, the rest of the list are things you can do in the city center that require no travel besides your own two feet.

Chiang Mai is the absolute queen of night markets.  There are different night markets on certain days of the week, like the Saturday walking street (Wua Lia) or Sunday walking street (Tha Pae), but there are also staples that run every night.  Not only is the quantity of markets impressive, but the size of each are massive.  They are never-ending streets that practically stretch across the city.

What creates the allure of the markets?  Besides shopping for everything under the sun (tchotchkes, art, hand goods, ceramics, jewelry, mementos, watches, leather, silks, boatloads of clothing)…  you can savor cheap food, guzzle down drinks, enjoy live entertainment and meet up with everyone in town.  Dumplings, curry, sweet noodles, exotic fruit, fried insects, yum. It is a grand affair every night, especially the weekend markets, though it does get overly crowded in parts.

My favorite market is the biggest, yet most low-key as it is outside the city center: Anusaran Market, on the South East side.  Most tourists do not make it out this far off the beaten path.  I like how it is a more relaxed experience with more locals and lots of space.  A high-ceiling tent with well-lit booths stretches to the back for what seems like a mile, or 2 kilometers!  Plus, you can catch a Muay Thai fight, Lady Boy Caberet Show, or rock out to the bands at the bars.

Listen to live music.

Speaking of live entertainment, the night markets are full of musicians that play blues, rock, jazz, reggae, country, classics… we heard a lot of Western music. 

For a more intimate experience, check out the North Gate Jazz Co-Op.  The tiny bar belts out live music every night after 7pm in an open-air venue on the street.  Besides jazz, the acts play an eclectic mix, like jam bands or rock.  I was digging it, and it’s a mellow place to visit alone.

The Roots, Rock, Reggae bar, a chilled spot wedged between the crazy wild dance floors at Zoe in Yellow square, brings groovy reggae acts to the elevated stage.  I was impressed by the talent in this diverse town that transported me to other worlds each night.

Discover edgy street art.

Around narrow corners and alleys are bright street murals with powerful messages.  Growing up in Los Angeles, I have seen a lot of graffiti - but none possessed quite the positive vibe I witnessed in Chiang Mai.

Photo by Khuong Tran

Lots of creatures, animals, and artistic themes characterized the street art, just down the way from ancient temples and ruins.  This new wave generation of tattooed Thai culture glared deep colors along the walls in contrast with the old city history throughout the city.

Get a Thai massage.

Come on, would the list be complete without a traditional Thai massage?  The truth is, you will do a lot of walking during your travels, and the yoga-style massages will give you a deep stretch for around $5. The first time I got a massage in Chiang Mai, I returned the next day for another! 

I usually pick a studio that has decent reviews online, but I have also just walked in and been lucky to receive a nice massage.  There is also a massage place run by women that are ex-prisoners, as it is difficult for them to get a job in society after doing time.  I stumbled across it by accident, on the north east corner of old square, and it was fantastic!  She was a strong one, so don’t be afraid to give your preference on soft or hard.

Tipping is not required, but I always give a donation to the massage therapists as it is a nice gesture, and the service is much cheaper than in the Western World for the same amount of effort.

Wander into quiet, unforeseen temples.

In Chiang Mai’s Old City, gold and white Buddhist temples hide on almost every street.  I had a more memorable experience in these unprecedented visits, contrasted with the most popular temples that charge fees to enter with crowds of people roaming in and out.

While we tried to navigate the streets to find the ancient ruins of Wat Chedi Luang (which is not hard to find, but we had just stepped off the plane), we would instead accidentally walk into smaller local temples with no one else inside besides monks watering the gardens. 

These quiet temples felt the most sacred to me, as I could feel the tranquil energy and admire the intricate holy sites with glimmering red jewels and monuments, making sure to honor the space.  Sometimes, the best kept secrets are along the roads less traveled by.   

Attend holiday celebrations.

The perfect way to end my experience in Chiang Mai was at the Flower Festival, a 4-day extravaganza of colorful flowers and events throughout the parks and streets. 

Friday brought dazzling lights around each of the four city gates: North, South, East, and West. The parade on Saturday morning was the main spectacle, with floats, marching bands, dancers, lady boys, and beauty queens strolling around the river.  The grandest array of flowers was at Buak Hard park, where droves of people flocked to take photos among the roses and wildflowers of every type.

Try to visit Chiang Mai during the holiday season for a cheerful time.  You can also visit during Songkran, Thai New Years, where everyone sprays each other with water for an entire week mid-April.  Time to start planning a trip for next year!


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