When planning my trip to Thailand, I had heard so much hype surrounding Chiang Mai and couldn’t wait to arrive in the Old City in the north.
However, as with any big city, I was a bit lost upon landing. What are the true highlights worth visiting, and what is simply a tourist trap? What is it that gives Chiang Mai its character? Is it all about the Old City Square, or is it necessary to venture outside of the main town?
What we discovered in this blazing hot urban hub was a little bit of both worlds: there are treasures within the popular center of town, but it is also essential to embark on a quest to the surrounding areas of Chiang Mai to grasp the full experience.
The modern new town is creative, full of rich art and music with a youthful flavor, juxtaposed with scattered remnants of old city temples and monuments. Beyond the center, you will want to take day trips to discover national parks, waterfalls, elephant sanctuaries, mountains, and more.
Note: it is not necessary to stay in the higher-priced accommodations within the tourist-filled square; you can easily stay outside the river perimeter and simply walk everywhere for a more relaxed visit.
Though I am sure this list is equivalent to one drop of spice in a bowl of Tom Yum, here are my favorite things to do in Chiang Mai!
Visit the elephant sanctuaries.
Spending time with elephants was one of my two favorite days I spent near Chiang Mai. It was a rewarding experience I will remember for the rest of my life.
We participated in Elephant Delight Project, which was run by Elephant Nature Park, one of the top ethical elephant sanctuaries in Thailand. Rather than just visit the nature park with dozens of elephants, we opted for the project because it gave us the opportunity to spend time with a select few elephants in their natural habitat. We hiked with four elephants through the mountains, prepared their food and fed them, and bathed the mud off their backs in the river.
Each of these adorable elephants carried a majestic presence. Females ranging in all ages, some were sweet, some were sassy, and all were so lovable. They portrayed a silent power, a captivating aura that humbled me and felt close to them. The mighty way they strolled, the slow movements, and their welcoming nature left me in a sense of awe that lasted all the way home, long after we had left. In short, I truly missed them after feeling that closeness to these beautiful beings.
The entire day’s cost, which included pickup from our hotel in Chiang Mai and lunch, was about $80 USD. If you are traveling on a budget… you should still, 100% choose to make this your splurge. It was completely worth it. After all, what are we traveling for other than life-changing moments like these? Just make sure your sanctuary is a no-riding, ethical sanctuary.
Climb Sticky Waterfalls.
Other than the elephant sanctuary, my next favorite day in Chiang Mai was spent at Bua Tong Waterfalls, also known as Sticky Waterfalls. The name references the strong grip of the rocks, so sticky that you can walk up and down them. Just be careful not to step on the green rocks, as those are the slippery ones. Ropes will guide you and give you balance while the water rushes down, cooling you off in the heat.
Photo by Khuong Tran
About three levels of rapids run from top to bottom, giving you a fun challenge. Enjoy the pools at the bottom of each waterfall and take those epic pictures that make the falls look scarier than they are. (I mean, it’s safe even for kids, but I’ll admit I was glad that I had travel health insurance!).
To get to Bua Tong Waterfalls, you must drive about 75 minutes north from the city center, but it is certainly worth the excursion.
Eat, drink, and enjoy performances at the night markets.
Unlike the previous bullet points, the rest of the list are things you can do in the city center that require no travel besides your own two feet.
Chiang Mai is the absolute queen of night markets. There are different night markets on certain days of the week, like the Saturday walking street (Wua Lia) or Sunday walking street (Tha Pae), but there are also staples that run every night. Not only is the quantity of markets impressive, but the size of each are massive. They are never-ending streets that practically stretch across the city.
What creates the allure of the markets? Besides shopping for everything under the sun (tchotchkes, art, hand goods, ceramics, jewelry, mementos, watches, leather, silks, boatloads of clothing)… you can savor cheap food, guzzle down drinks, enjoy live entertainment and meet up with everyone in town. Dumplings, curry, sweet noodles, exotic fruit, fried insects, yum. It is a grand affair every night, especially the weekend markets, though it does get overly crowded in parts.
My favorite market is the biggest, yet most low-key as it is outside the city center: Anusaran Market, on the South East side. Most tourists do not make it out this far off the beaten path. I like how it is a more relaxed experience with more locals and lots of space. A high-ceiling tent with well-lit booths stretches to the back for what seems like a mile, or 2 kilometers! Plus, you can catch a Muay Thai fight, Lady Boy Caberet Show, or rock out to the bands at the bars.
Listen to live music.
Speaking of live entertainment, the night markets are full of musicians that play blues, rock, jazz, reggae, country, classics… we heard a lot of Western music.
For a more intimate experience, check out the North Gate Jazz Co-Op. The tiny bar belts out live music every night after 7pm in an open-air venue on the street. Besides jazz, the acts play an eclectic mix, like jam bands or rock. I was digging it, and it’s a mellow place to visit alone.
The Roots, Rock, Reggae bar, a chilled spot wedged between the crazy wild dance floors at Zoe in Yellow square, brings groovy reggae acts to the elevated stage. I was impressed by the talent in this diverse town that transported me to other worlds each night.
Discover edgy street art.
Around narrow corners and alleys are bright street murals with powerful messages. Growing up in Los Angeles, I have seen a lot of graffiti - but none possessed quite the positive vibe I witnessed in Chiang Mai.
Photo by Khuong Tran
Lots of creatures, animals, and artistic themes characterized the street art, just down the way from ancient temples and ruins. This new wave generation of tattooed Thai culture glared deep colors along the walls in contrast with the old city history throughout the city.
Get a Thai massage.
Come on, would the list be complete without a traditional Thai massage? The truth is, you will do a lot of walking during your travels, and the yoga-style massages will give you a deep stretch for around $5. The first time I got a massage in Chiang Mai, I returned the next day for another!
I usually pick a studio that has decent reviews online, but I have also just walked in and been lucky to receive a nice massage. There is also a massage place run by women that are ex-prisoners, as it is difficult for them to get a job in society after doing time. I stumbled across it by accident, on the north east corner of old square, and it was fantastic! She was a strong one, so don’t be afraid to give your preference on soft or hard.
Tipping is not required, but I always give a donation to the massage therapists as it is a nice gesture, and the service is much cheaper than in the Western World for the same amount of effort.
Wander into quiet, unforeseen temples.
In Chiang Mai’s Old City, gold and white Buddhist temples hide on almost every street. I had a more memorable experience in these unprecedented visits, contrasted with the most popular temples that charge fees to enter with crowds of people roaming in and out.
While we tried to navigate the streets to find the ancient ruins of Wat Chedi Luang (which is not hard to find, but we had just stepped off the plane), we would instead accidentally walk into smaller local temples with no one else inside besides monks watering the gardens.
These quiet temples felt the most sacred to me, as I could feel the tranquil energy and admire the intricate holy sites with glimmering red jewels and monuments, making sure to honor the space. Sometimes, the best kept secrets are along the roads less traveled by.
Attend holiday celebrations.
The perfect way to end my experience in Chiang Mai was at the Flower Festival, a 4-day extravaganza of colorful flowers and events throughout the parks and streets.
Friday brought dazzling lights around each of the four city gates: North, South, East, and West. The parade on Saturday morning was the main spectacle, with floats, marching bands, dancers, lady boys, and beauty queens strolling around the river. The grandest array of flowers was at Buak Hard park, where droves of people flocked to take photos among the roses and wildflowers of every type.
Try to visit Chiang Mai during the holiday season for a cheerful time. You can also visit during Songkran, Thai New Years, where everyone sprays each other with water for an entire week mid-April. Time to start planning a trip for next year!
