May 20, 2020

Indonesia, Asia

Unbelievable Natural Wonders of Nusa Penida, Indonesia

May 20, 2020

Indonesia, Asia

The treacherous climbs and descents absolutely terrified me, but they lead to the most beautiful beaches in the world on Nusa Penida, Indonesia.

You may have seen pictures of these remarkable locations on social media (that of course omit how ridiculous the hikes are), yet these spots prove even more epic in person.

Just eastern neighbors to Bali and not nearly as commercially developed, the small island of Nusa Penida has narrow roads full of character that speak stories. Many residents have stayed here their entire lives.

I zoomed past new houses being hand built (and probably stayed in one), but most of the charm of Nusa Penida is in its original untouched landscape that captivates photographers and people around the world.

Here are (more than) 6 unbelievable places to visit in Nusa Penida.

6. Broken Beach and Angel’s Billabong

Broken Beach and Angel’s Billabong are located right next to each other on the coastal cliffs.

You can walk from one stunning beauty to the other within five minutes and take the coveted selfie or fifty. Both carved out treasures are just as gorgeous in person and worth a brief visit, but you cannot swim or walk down to either beach.

Be careful at Angel’s Billabong, however, as several tourists have tragically passed away from standing too close to the edge trying to get a risky photo right before dangerous waves came crashing on to the shoreline.

5. Thousand Islands Viewpoint

While you can’t actually spot 1,000 islands, you are standing on a mini island yourself as you look out to the vast blue and turquoise waters that surround you with floating cliffs.

Thousand Islands Viewpoint will be your first workout with 10 minutes of steep steps up the mountain on the way back. You can pay to sit in those cute swings or cabanas for a photo op, but you don’t need it - the view is already incredible.

4. Tembeling Beach and Forest

The wildest motorbike ride down into the forest led to Tembeling Beach and Forest, where several jewels shine hidden under the shaded foliage of the mountain.

The first gem is an emerald pool where devils can dare to jump from various levels into the deep. I only jumped off the lowest level, about 12 feet, scared to my wits. So worth it!

After cooling off in the pool, make your way down stone steps to a cave full of mysteriously stacked rocks, a natural rock infinity pool, and the beach.

3. Diamond Beach and Atuh Beach

All the way on less traveled east side of Nusa Penida lies the precious coasts of Diamond Beach and Atuh Beach, situated on opposite sides of a cliff.

Laced between the two beaches, it seriously feels like you are standing on the edge of the earth.

Atuh beach felt shallow and shelled with eateries and lounge chairs, while Diamond Beach hid behind sloshed choppy waves and shrouded cliff walls.

Though the days I visited burst dark clouds and thunderstorms since March deemed the end of the rainy season, each beach blew my mind with the natural colors and gorgeous shape of the earth.

2. Kelingking Beach

The steepest hike of all 6 on this list, the 45 minute way down to Kelingking Beach starts out chill, and gets sketchy really fast. My heart raced as the jagged gravel stairs began to sprawl straight down.

Despite the heights, the picturesque waters truly glimmer aqua and dazzle deep blue. Kelingking resembles a tyrannosaurus rex floating heavenly between sky and water.

The driver that dropped me off made me promise I would not swim in the water because the current was too dangerous. He wasn’t kidding - the aggressive waves roared high and banged on to the shore sharp and strong. I had to hold on to my suit just standing on the shore…

1. Manta Point

Not my photo - I was too busy scuba diving for only the second time! Try Karma Diving in Nusa Penida.

A last minute decision to splurge on scuba diving with 9 foot manta rays proved to be the unexpected highlight of the entire trip - and well worth the expense, even for a backpacker.

You don’t need a diver’s certification to witness these majestic beings playing 40 feet down in the underwater jungle. Plunging so close to a dozen manta rays at Manta Point flipped my world upside down, leaving this unbelievable natural wonder the best thing to do in Nusa Penida.

Gallery

From the West to the East… gorgeous views and dangerous waters categorized a stormy, thrilling excursion in Nusa Penida.

Molly Sinclair

April 26, 2020

Thailand, Asia

Meditating with Thai Monks in a Forest Monastery: Wat Pa Tam Wua

Molly Sinclair

April 26, 2020

Thailand, Asia

One hundred people surrounded me in the dark, but the only sound I could hear was that of my own breath.

Suddenly, a low voice swam through the thick silence and saturated all four corners of the open-air forest monastery where we sat in stillness:

“Right now, there is nothing you have to do or think about.”

The Thai monk’s mellow tone echoed throughout the wall-less Dharma Hall towards the ears of dozens of visitors and volunteers from around the world. I would hear his heavenly hum over the speaker every night but could only ever imagine the all-knowing expression that resided with it, since we kept our eyes closed throughout the routine.

“All you have to do…” he would continue with a lingering pause, “is focus on your breathing.”

As I prepared my breath to begin a forty-minute silent meditation, I savored the taste of the moment. I felt grateful to be in a special place, at none other than Northern Thailand’s Wat Pa Tam Wua Forest Monastery (abbreviated as Wat Tam Wua), absorbing the precious Theravadan Buddhist teachings from six monks.

* * *

At Wat Tam Wua, visitors are welcome to stay for up to ten days to practice meditation in a beautiful forest setting comprised of rainbow-colored trees, streams, hidden caves and mountains. The monastery runs solely off of donations from visitors and organizations. Volunteers facilitate the space, organize activities, and provide visitors with accommodations plus two vegetarian meals a day.

Though I was a foreigner without a Buddhist upbringing, I felt completely comfortable during my week-long stay at Wat Tam Wua, as they welcome anyone with open arms who aspires to learn about Buddhism, meditation, or simply “become a more mindful, focused and happy human being,” as their website explains. Check, check, check for me.

After hearing about the life-changing retreat from my hostel roommate who had attended, I researched Wat Tam Wua and concluded it was a must-do experience that aligned with my solo trip goals. Why do we travel anyway, if not to become better people?

* * *

My mind and body dueled and danced with each other during our thrice daily meditations in the monastery Dharma Hall. I sat in a white plastic chair (white was for women, blue for men) in the back of the holy structure that consisted of an enormous flat slabbed ceiling supported by wooden beams and glossed with ocher-brown tile floors, all encircled by forest views.

Most students plopped down on the moss green pillows in the traditional way with one leg bent over the other while meditating, but I resorted to the chair after finding this cross-legged position too difficult to hold for such long periods of time (about five hours a day).

In the daytime, the structure’s ceiling provided shade from the scorching Thai sun, as the monastery is located near Mae Hong Son near the border of Myanmar. In the evening, the whining mosquitos joined us for meditation.

It is quite a magical feeling to close your eyes on a purple-permed night in the middle of the forest across the world, resounding in the silent presence of the sacred and the studious, with all one hundred beings inhaling and exhaling at the same vibration.

Getting There

The spiritual road is full of twists and turns. I hopped into a minivan leaving Pai’s hippie town that swerved through wavy mountains for one hour before the van driver halted to a sudden stop, dumping me in the woods of Mae Hong Son.

Another rider also got off the van to make the half mile walk to the entrance. She seemed less eager to chit-chat than me, which I didn’t take offense to since we were heading to a mecca for spiritual growth, not to make friends. Plus, I knew some visitors to Wat Tam Wua choose to remain silent during their stay (you can put on a Silent pin at any time), though not required.

What struck me first were two enormous golden mountains looming above like gods looking down over us, massively disproportionate to the rest of the landscape. They were greeters beckoning us in the right direction.

What would this spur-of-the-moment visit bring? What would I learn from the monks? These questions captivated me.

A Spellbinding Setting

Finally, the trees parted to reveal an arched entrance above a wide sand road leading towards a village of huts by the river. We had arrived.

Two friendly monks in orange robes spotted our lost faces and waved us down to point us in the direction of the reception. I was pleased we were already able to speak with the monks casually, because as women we must keep our distance out of respect.

On that note, the volunteer checking me in did mention that women must sit in the back half of the main hall for all lessons and meditations, far from the speakers. We also had to walk behind the men during walking meditation. The reasoning was “to not have any distractions from meditation,” which you can make your own conclusions about. Later, these gender rules ended up being a bit inconvenient as the lessons often started before the women returned from walking meditation. However, I didn’t let this damper my experience and I was thankful to be able to visit the monastery at all.

The kind-hearted volunteer explained a few other rules essential to showing respect. Do not sit with your feet pointing towards Buddha; do not hug your knees into your chest when sitting (this implies boredom); all visitors must wear white clothes (these are provided if you have none); yoga is not allowed outside your kuti (poses can be provocative); be sure to arrive early to all activities.

Most importantly, all spiritual activities are mandatory, from 6:30 AM to 8:00 PM.

After checking in, I plucked a mat, blanket, and pillow along with the white uniform from the laundry shed and trotted towards the dormitory, since all the private kutis were full.

The dorm was one large room with a screen door for insects and a creaky wooden floor that could probably fit about forty mats. During my stay, the greatest amount of people sleeping in the room at a time was near thirty.

I tossed my pack down and quickly changed into the loose lavender-tinted-white pair of sweatpants and unisex V-neck blouse, almost resembling scrubs, ready to jolt downstairs and arrive early to the mid-day food offering to the monks.

My quiet mate from the van was slugging into the dorm as I leapt out the door. “You look like a nurse,” she smirked at me.

A Full Schedule of Activities

Our daily schedule consisted as follows, with mandatory activities in bold:

05:00 Morning meditation in your kuti.

06:30 Rice offering to the monks.

07:00 Breakfast.

08:00 Morning Dharma talk, and meditation class.

10:30 Food offering to the monks.

11:00 Lunch.

13:00 Afternoon Dharma talk and meditation class.

16:00 Cleaning the area and helping in the monastery.

17:00 Free time.

18:00 Evening Chanting, meditation and Dharma talk.

20:00 Meditation on your own, or have tea, coffee, hot chocolate & relax.

22:00 Rest time.

Rice and Food Offerings

Every morning at dawn, we knelt in darkness to participate in the age-old tradition of offering rice to the monks. Each monk would hold an alms bowl while sauntering down the line of kneeling students, pausing in front of each student who would then scoop a spoonful of rice into the bowl. This was the breakfast offering, as monks only eat and drink what is given to them. Afterwards, a volunteers would bring the monks the rest of their meal to accompany the rice.

For the lunch offering, the final meal of the day, the process was slightly different. The female students would present the various dishes to the abbot (the head monk), bowing before him and raising the soups and salads and vegetable-potato-rice-filled dishes in the air before placing them down in front of him. The abbot would pick the dishes up with a receiving cloth (as to form a barrier between what the women had touched) and serve himself the food before passing on each dish to the male students that could offer them freely to the other monks.

The jolly light-eyed abbot would always make silly remarks that cracked me up, dissolving any seriousness at the monastery. He would laugh at his own jokes, too. For example, instead of instructing us plainly not to visit the dorms of the opposite gender, he would instead say “Tonight… no Thai massage!”. When recounting the story of a student who was afraid of a snake, he would acquire a high-pitched squeal, giggling as he mimicked the student: “Help me! Don’t kill me Mr. Snake!” as we all buzzed with chuckles.

Meals and Silent Area

For the lay-person meals (the students and volunteers), we would eat the same foods that the monks ate after they were served. We lined up for buffet-style breakfast and lunch, the latter around 11AM.

Having our final meal at normal “brunch” hours was not as big of a problem as you would imagine, given that we were rising and going to bed early. However, after the third ay I succumbed to my cravings and purchased snacks at the small store at Wat Tam Wua that sold items like cup of noodles, chips, some fruit, and sweets.

Why didn’t we eat dinner? From the Buddhist books I read at the monastery such as Ajahn Sumedho’s anthologies, they explain that while us lay people often surround our days around desirable foods and celebrate feasts, monks eat consciously as a utility. By only eating one or two simple meals a day, this limits food or other pleasures from becoming a priority over spirituality.

The dining area was split into two sections: silent and non-silent tables. Even though I chose not to wear a silent pin, as to have the freedom to speak if I wanted to connect with people, I still found myself sitting at the silent tables every meal, reflecting.

Chanting

What some people found tiring ended up being one of my favorite activities: evening chanting. We chanted uplifting credos in Pali, Thai, and English for forty minutes, and although I only understood the English, I treated the chants like songs, and belted them out loudly. After all, it was our only music!

Cleaning the Monastery

Voluntary cleaning usually consisted of raking leaves or sweeping around the monastery, although we were encouraged to help out at all times, from preparing food in the kitchen to washing dishes to tidying up the common areas. The hour gave me a chance to get some light exercise and chat with other students to find out how their meditation experiences were going. I even got a rare chance to speak one-on-one with the abbot (though we just made small talk).

Core of the Meditations and Dharma Talks

“Feel each part of the body. It is not your body. It is the body,” the monks instructed us during sitting meditation. “Feel!”

The monks detailed the distinction between the soul and the mind and the body — between observing and thinking and feeling. This body is merely a vessel for us to experience during this lifetime; not the same as the soul of our being.

“Notice the mind thinking. It is not your mind. It is the mind.”

We shall disassociate with the mind as self. We notice the mind’s mortal thoughts without judgment, like watching a cloud pass by. We do not try to stop or repress the thoughts, as they will disappear on their own once we are observant.

Our soul is the knower.

These acknowledgments laid the foundations for our meditation practice.

3 Types of Meditation

Each meditation session consisted of walking, sitting and lying down meditations.

Walking meditation? I always thought meditation was about sitting still.

We would shuffle slowly in a single file line through the forest, the utmost serene setting. One monk would lead the line, meticulously stepping his right heel down like molasses, followed by the ball of the foot, then toes, chanting the mantra “Bud” in his head. Then, the same thing on the left side, except chanting “Dho”. You can imagine how slow we were walking.

“Bud dho” means “the one who knows,” as we become the knower: aware of our thoughts, separate from the mind, rather than letting our thoughts run like a wild horse.

The point of each calculated step was to remain focused on one object, such as the soles of your feet, the inhale and exhale of your breath, or the mantra “Bud-Dho”. This is the essence of Samatha meditation.

Once we master Samatha, we may move into Vipassana meditation to reach a greater wisdom. Vipassana meditation involves moving the object of concentration into the background (i.e. your breath) and noticing how the mind wanders towards or away from that object, allowing the thoughts to become the foreground. Thus, in Vipassana meditation we notice both the object and the mind at the same time.

It was challenging to stay focused while woodlands of wonder preceded us.

We strolled by gorgeous gold and purple flower petals, the sparkling river, autumn-tinted leaves, mysterious caves, and a cute Chow-mixed dog named “Bui Dog” that would follow us around the monastery. I still think his name should be “Bud-Dhog”.

After almost an hour of walking meditation, we washed our feet and sunk back into a chair or cushion in the main hall to practice sitting meditation using the same fundamentals for another forty minutes. Finally, we reclined on the floor for a fifteen minute lying down meditation.

We repeated this triad in the morning and afternoon, with the evening session solely consisting of the sitting meditation.

It may sound like a lot of meditation for the beginner, but the way the sessions were broken up gave the day structure and made sense.

Personal Experience

Despite a week of studies, the greatest takeaway I left with was that truly understanding meditation comes from practice.

Each day of practice grew easier to focus and calm the mind. While the first day or two was challenging – to sit for hours, to stay present, and to find stillness – my experience transformed into pure bliss after breaking the ice.

Still, I felt quite lost at times. Am I doing the meditation correctly? My mind wanders less, but I don’t feel particularly wonderful, or like I am accomplishing anything.

I decided to borrow some books on Buddhism from the monastery library to aid my practice and fill in the blanks, and ended up reading five books during my stay. The books written by bhikkus and scholars explained concepts in depth, from the fundamental truths of Buddhism all the way to modern applications today, answering several questions I had. Here are just a few that may be useful to your daily life:

How often should we meditate?

Working all day and doing one meditation at night is not likely going to be able to cure all our learned mental patterns. Instead, focus on co-existing with these busy mental states throughout the day. Be kind and patient and aware. In other words, apply the constant practice of non-judging, non-attached loving kindness throughout the day to remain in a neutral state.

How do we get rid of negative thoughts?

Our arising thoughts and feelings are normal and should not be shut out, whether we think of them as ‘good’ or ‘bad’. Emotions are mortal states that we cannot repress. We simply absolve them by acknowledging them, which results in their naturally passing. Meditation allows us to remain neutral towards these emotions. In Buddhism, there are no mental offenses, no sins for certain thoughts, so long as we do not act upon them.

I am affected by the negative people / world around me.

We cannot control the world around us, and we suffer when we expect the world to bend to our satisfaction. Oftentimes, we blame society or our upbringing or other folks for our problems. It is true that other people behave in ways that are inappropriate, however we are still responsible for our own reactions and expectations. Their actions result in their own karma. The good news for us is that when we stop clinging to an outcome, we are able to let go and accept the world as is — freeing us from desire and suffering.

If we let go of desire, how can we still be motivated to do anything?

We can still be productive individuals and achieve purpose in our lives, without heedless desires. This comes from knowing things as they really are, through mindfulness. When we observe with an uncontaminated mind, we achieve clarity on what we are here to do, without intrusive desires or clouded judgment. For example, Buddha was free of desire but still remained a productive teacher. He did not become one in order to be a famous person, or to earn lots of money, or to find a wife — but because it was his calling. Neutrality through meditation allows us to make guided choices to understand what we need to do and what we need not to do.

* * *

This unique week that I had the privilege to spend at Wat Pa Tam Wua Forest Monastery in Thailand was nothing like I expected but became everything I needed. I am eternally grateful to the extremely patient monks that dedicate their life to teaching others, answering all our outlandish questions in multiple languages, and giving us the tools for a lifetime. I thank the volunteers who pour their hearts into the monastery yet collect their plate of food last.

On the last day, I left my donation and crammed with ten others into the bed of a rustic metal truck that skirted out the cream-colored arched entryway. I looked back at the gods on the golden mountains as the sunny waters whispered to me, goodbye.

Gallery

An assortment of Spring memories not already pictured. Click each preview to view the full image.

Molly Sinclair

April 12, 2020

Indonesia, Asia

Gili Air, Indonesia: Tiny Island, Big Heart

Molly Sinclair

April 12, 2020

Indonesia, Asia

Come gather around the bonfire, as I am going to tell you a story about a tiny island that lies in the South Seas of the Pacific Ocean, a magical place I will always remember: Gili Air.

A small village with a big heart, Gili Air is an enigma. To give you an idea of how absolutely miniscule the island is - it is undetectable on a map of Indonesia, and you can stroll around the entire oblong perimeter in under two hours. No cars traverse the narrow dirt roads; instead, people get around by foot or bicycle. You will cross paths with a few horse and buggies, but these are primarily a tourist attraction.

“Why are you going to Gili Air?” fellow travelers would ask me, bewildered. Their curiosity stems from the notion that the island of Gili T is the bigger and better destination, known for its wild parties and highly developed area. Though it may be true that Gili T leads the pack in tourism – heck, Gili Air did not even have ATMs until a couple years ago – my response to the inquirers is simple: I like to take the path less traveled by.

I will reveal why this tropical key is one of the best-kept-secrets – from psychedelic nights to emotional experiences in an oasis hidden from the world – but first, some brief background.

Gili Air is one of three major Gili Islands along with Gili T (short for Trawangan) and Gili Meno. Gili means “small island” in Sasak language and Air means “water”. Many travelers are unaware there are actually more gilis, about 26 in total, but most of these are too small to be habitable. The main trio rests next to the larger neighboring land of Lombok, a 10-minute boat ride away across teal waters, where many local workers commute from each day. Eager tourists usually ferry from Bali, about two hours west on the high-speed boat.

While I felt like a nosy tourist snapping photos in Indonesian’s gorgeous destinations of Bali and Nusa Penida (how could you not?), the moment I arrived in Gili Air and stepped knee-deep in clear turquoise saltwater to deboard the boat, I was immediately greeted with a warm welcome – and would soon become treated like family.

Don’t Worry, Be Happy

With only around a couple thousand people on the island at a time, there are less people on Gili Air than there were students at my high school. But unlike memories of public high school in Los Angeles, the people on Gili Air are warm, friendly and kind (just being real here).

You begin to see the same people around on the island, and if you are an open book, you get to know everyone on a first-name basis. I’m talking about the workers, whether they are restaurant owners, tour operators, shop clerks, beach club bartenders… they all greeted me with genuine smiles and conversations that ran deeper than the basic questions or feigned interest you often contend with while traveling in Asia. Honestly, most locals seemed just as interested to meet you as you were to meet them.

If the song “Don’t Worry, Be Happy” was a place, Gili Air would be it. Not only did I hear that iconic song a lot… but the dozens of folks I met during my stay were chiller than chill. There are plenty of exciting activities to do in the gilis, which I’ll get into later, but the vibes are mellow on Gili Air, to the point where I feel like I could live there. Everyone is living the slow life.

Literally.

“Slow down, woman!” my new friend “G” playfully barked at me the first night I arrived. I had been frantically asking too many questions, after discovering I was lucky enough to visit during the monthly full moon party. When are we going to go to the party? Should we go now to check it out? It says it started at 5PM. What should I bring? Are you guys all coming?

Although I had left my busy hometown of L.A. two months prior, I still emanated the anxious fervor of an urbanite. I paused, stopped to actually breathe, and realized it’s true – that this constant rushing is silly. Why am I running to the beach, as if it is going to suddenly going to disappear? It makes sense to get caught up in this busybody style when you are traveling, since you are always trying to catch a plane, a boat, a train, a tour, a check out time… I’m exhausted just writing about it.

By the way, if you’re wondering, the ‘woman’ part of his request was not derogatory, but one of those lost-in-translation moments. We say “hey, man” as a friendly term in English, so he assumed the same goes for a woman.

Nevertheless, I adopted the phrase, and repeated it to myself when I noticed I was rushing the rest of my trip: slow life.

Part of the Family

I’ll admit that it’s not sharp wit, unmatched charm, or ridiculously good looks that make it easy for me to become friends with people around the world, particularly on a remote island in Indonesia.

It’s my hula hoop.

Strutting down the busy beach boardwalk my first afternoon while trying not to get trampled by bikes or horse drawn carriages as I admired the rainbow-colored boats along the harbor, I stumbled upon a group of young folks that spied the gold circle hanging on my shoulder, and then heard the same comments that follow me anywhere else in the world: Is that a hula hoop? Show us what you’ve got!

I twirled around the boardwalk like Frogger, the old arcade game where your frog character tries to hop across the street without getting squished by virtual cars, and after the dance was done, I made friends. I decided to abandon my foolish “plans” (wherever I was going), and learned you don’t need plans on Gili Air.

Our central hangout was the same place we met, on the beach outside Three Little Birds, Yancibey’s shop for hair wraps, dreadlocks, and handmade jewelry, fittingly named after the Bob Marley song. I quickly learned this was the main spot where many people gathered, and my handful of friends turned into dozens over the next few days.

There was a painted wooden sign that hung in the shop, boasting “Free Smiles.” That was true. The laughs were abundant, too.

We sat on the makeshift benches, telling funny jokes to attract tourists to the shop, which really made us more friends than customers. We savored juicy fish that was just caught, grilled and seasoned with the most delicious sambal (spicy sauce) – oh, how I would kill for that charred sea bass right now. We spent evenings drinking rice wine, a locally brewed drink that smelled like sulfur, but I guzzled it down anyway as the boys played cards. I answered questions about America that I found humorous, and we sang classic songs from western bands (Guns N Roses, Pink Floyd). I met their families, went to their houses, and learned a few Indonesian words. Several of my friends didn’t have cell phones… why would we need them? We knew where everyone stayed, or hung out, on this tiny island in the Pacific.

And yes, we finally went to the party.

Psychedelic Parties

At the beach parties, goa trance echoed out from the DJ booth towards the ocean’s dark waves like a siren’s mystical song at sea. Acid house, psytrance, techno and other house genres also sparked from the beachfront clubs, along with shooting neon lasers and colored strobe lights.

If you have no idea what I am talking about, it’s all loud, speedy electronic music. If you hate electronic music, you can always visit Gili Meno, the calmest island. Gili T is party-heavy, while Gili Air is a sweet Goldilocks atmosphere in between the two.

I find it hilarious and embarrassing that, by habit, I imagined the parties to be at actual indoor bars or clubs. Of course, the clubs were outside! Popular beach clubs like Lucky’s or Legend were grand locations on the sand with a dance floor, beanbags, tables, bars, and plenty of festive, dancing people!

Despite the buzz from the Bintang lager, there are always little things that remind you where you are. At one bar, I bought a room temperature beer, because I wanted a beer and there was a lack of ice. Remember, you’re on a tropical island where everything is imported with shipments, and beach bars often chill drinks with portable coolers. Read the room!

Besides the music, why do I use the term psychedelic? Well… there are magical mushrooms that pop up in different establishments. They are illegal, but you can find them in the form of milkshakes, and trip out on the beach.

Fire spinners lit round wicks on strings ablaze and whirled them towards the starry sky. Locals and visitors from around the world chatted and clinked drinks together. And it turns out that the parties stretch much later than they claim to be, with the full moon event remaining just another night on Gili Air.

More Things to Do

A typical day on the island involves meandering through overgrown alleys towards the never-ending white sand beach and stopping in bamboo-built restaurants to huddle under shady enclosures, enjoying Indonesian fare like Nasi Goreng and Mie Goreng (fried rice and fried noodles) or Western delights (falafel pitas, cheeseburgers) over cold pineapple drinks.

You can indulge in the common vacation pleasures, such as receiving a massage, relaxing at the bar, or getting inked at the bamboo tattoo shop.

However, you are on Gili Air! Time to take a glass bottom boat tour, snorkel with huge turtles and underwater sculptures, scuba dive to vibrant reefs, island hop, or get wild with water sports.

I even took the public boat to the serene jungle in Lombok for a day, where we biked up the tree topped mountains to godly cascading waterfalls with no one else at the base. My new friend Kiki showed me hidden natural swimming pools with multiple levels of turquoise falls where we waded in the strong sun.

If you are in the Gilis I suggest you take the time to visit Lombok for a few days (or the other way around - fly into Lombok, and then visit the Gilis). There are astoundingly less tourists there than in Bali, and Lombok blossoms a diverse bouquet of nature. I must certainly make a trip back to surf at the break, check out the famous pink sand beach, trek to the active volcano, and witness dramatic sunsets.

17,000 Islands

When I planned my trip to Gili Air, I only allotted myself a few days to explore, not knowing if I would grow bored because of its intimate size. Of course, I was utterly wrong! Yes, a few days are perfectly worth the excursion if you are short on time, but if you find yourself backpacking with no limits, I recommend booking a one-way ticket so you can chill for as long as you would like.

The magic of the Gilis is that once you get settled, you never want to leave. This bright, loving, carefree, forgiving, colorful, majestic, wondrous place is built on a close-knit community, lustrous flora and friendly fauna, unique small businesses and a cohesive relationship with global travelers.

Indonesia is the largest archipelago in the world, composed of 17,000 islands of which 6000 are inhabited. Yet I have only visited a handful of these islands, which is like going to the beach and only stomping one footprint into the sand before turning around. It was an emotional experience to leave on the topsy boat back to Bali, but I know I have more memories to make near the fanciful waters of the Gili Islands.

Gallery

Molly Sinclair

March 30, 2020

Asia, Malaysia, Travel Tips

World on Fire: A Mini Fable from the Coronavirus Era

Molly Sinclair

March 30, 2020

Asia, Malaysia, Travel Tips

I’m sitting outside a swamp-hot hostel in the underdeveloped island of Langkawi, Malaysia in the second half of March 2020 when I realize I have finally met my match.

It’s time to go home.

Within two months of traveling throughout South East Asia - beginning in Vietnam in January, Thailand in February, and Indonesia and Malaysia in March - the looming threat of coronavirus grew from being a domestic issue in China to becoming a full-fledged global pandemic.

While travelers and locals exercised general caution in these areas of Asia, business seemed to run as usual during the first couple months of the year. Most people in major cities wore masks already, and no one realized at the time how quickly the virus was spreading.

Yet as weeks passed the situation grew more dire, with shops shutting down and international borders closing. Given the circumstances, I decided it would be better to wait out the lockdown with friends rather than be alone in Indonesia, so I set out to meet them in Langkawi, a remote island in Malaysia. The plan was to stay away from the hotspots of the virus for a while as the Malaysian visa permitted us to stay 90 days, with most other countries only permitting 30 for tourists. I did not want to return to the United States which contained thousands of cases of the virus, just as my European friends did not want to head home either to the epicenter.

But alas, the monster known as corona engulfed the world in its tracks, and Malaysia was no different. Shortly after I arrived, the country submerged into lockdown and I found myself in an area where I didn’t feel comfortable waiting it out for three months, or even longer.

For one, the lack of resources on the island was concerning. There was limited access to fresh food, let alone medical assistance if need be. Additionally, you cannot drink water from the tap, so what would happen if less shipments resulted in shortages?

Secondly, transportation was being cut off with less airplanes and ferries operating, which would leave me trapped if the system halted completely.

Thirdly, the rules seemed to be changing every day, through hearsay. Military roamed the streets to enforce unclear curfews concerning our limitations, such as when or where we could get groceries or takeout food. Would hostels be deemed an essential business, or would we be put out on the streets at any moment?

After weeks of looking over my shoulder, trying to outrun the beast and seek shelter in a remote location… I looked up at the blazing equator sun on that pink-sky day and decided it was finally time to throw in the towel, and head back to the Western world while I still could.

Two days later, I sunk into my cramped seat aboard a jumbo jet headed to the United States and looked out the oval-shaped jet window, watching the lime-green ground drift smaller and smaller away from me, when I wrote this miniature fable.

Above: Moments of stillness in Langkawi, Malaysia after businesses closed.

World On Fire

A deep pang throbs from the pit of my chest down to the top of my abdomen as I run, pace after pace. I try to block out the pain mentally and physically, relaxing my shoulders down. I take a deep inhale to level out, but my heart clenches tight, leaving me short of breath. Prickly bumps lift the hairs on my forearms.

My mind checks in to analyze the discomfort. ‘What is this feeling?’ I ask myself.

But I already know.

The anxiety has finally set in. I’ve denied what the world has been facing.

Running the opposite direction from dangerous flames all morning and afternoon, the bruised bottoms of my feet cannot gallop any faster through the arid desert. I steal a quick glance over my right shoulder at the chaos, where our village used to be. Relatively far away from the flames, I still have a chance to escape. I will make it, I promise myself.

My heavy heart is racing, pulse thumping like crazy, but my gaze remains stubborn, determined.

Drenched in salty sweat, the wet beads run down my brows and drip onto my eyelids. My jelly knees are growing weak. I keep sprinting for miles and miles, away from the ever-exploding fire.

Suddenly I feel a gust of wind propel my numb body forward. I start to gain a lead and proudly decide, I really am going to make it out of here alive! But I still don’t know where I’m headed.

Everything was going well in our village before disaster struck.

Looking ahead down the never-ending dry dirt road, I notice a couple other men and women running in front of me at a steady pace. No children. However, almost everyone else is trailing is behind me, either losing speed or lagging several yards behind. They begin to fall off one by one, disappearing into the dust until I can no longer hear their gasps and footprints.

They will be dead soon.

I start to speed like hell, as the fiery explosions behind me are getting closer.

“You’ll never make it running like that!” a family of stragglers shouts at me from the side of the road, huddled behind cluttered debris. “Hunker down with us here, now!”

I know they are trying their best during this wild predicament, but I won’t hide like the others, I say to myself. We all have to get out of here. The best thing we can do is keep going.

“I’m fine!” I shout back, but a sharp terror inside me starts to brew.

I’m panting, dripping sweat. There is absolutely no denying it now: the entire hot earth is on fire.

Golden rock mountains in the distance turn purple as nightfall sets in. Loud howls and yells bellow through the cracks of the desert valley, unclear whether they are from animal or man. Charcoal black smoke thickens the air, tinged with the smell of burnt hair and flesh.

I’ve been fleeing since I got the call at sunrise. Initially we heard of the warning from across the desert villages many moons away, yet didn’t think anything of it. My tribe and I were not affected by the fires just a few days prior, given the distance, but the ashes began to spread in the wind. Soon the sun warmed the dry brush under the hot clouds, and the land began to catch a flame. In just days, the fire grew so large that you couldn’t see the stars anymore.

Red blood clouds loom overhead. I’m burning up in the dark heat, and I thirst for water. My throat is full of sore, dry lumps yet I have no energy to cough anymore. I feel each leap of my legs slowing down, each stride requiring more effort, each wheezy breath becoming more difficult. My mental state stands tough, but in times like these, it begins to wane with the crescent moon.

There are no more roads to take. No more villages to stop in that are safe. Other tribes have shut their doors, and I couldn’t make it in time as they barred the fences. Too many people are needing help, with almost every area now overtaken by the Act of God. And soon, each of these tribes may have to seek refuge themselves.

I abruptly gasp and fall to my knees, crushing the gravel, but nothing even hurts anymore. My body is numb. I am beyond exhausted.

I look up rapidly, breathing hard, and I realize I am alone in the eerie dark.

Surrender.

A deafening blow booms into my back and I feel a torch for a millisecond. The pain frees as my body plummets into the ground and thick smoke fills the desert canyon. In the same fraction of a moment, I take my last breath. Everything goes black.

* * *

Molly Sinclair

March 2, 2020

Thailand, Asia

How I Got Stuck in the Pai-Hole: Why Thailand’s Mountain Town is Hard to Escape

Molly Sinclair

March 2, 2020

Thailand, Asia

“Molly… How long have you been here?”

My new wide-grinned acquaintance, a 22-year-old shirtless man living in Florida, looked up at me inquisitively as I pranced with my hula hoop on an uneven bamboo dock that was nestled by the sparkling river along the back-acre lawn of Paradise Bar.

“Umm… I don’t know, actually,” I responded carelessly, suddenly realizing I had genuinely lost of track of time during my stop in Pai, the laidback mountain town in northern Thailand near the border of Myanmar. “I think I’ve been here, maybe a couple weeks?”

We were gathered on the outskirts of the main town, enjoying a sun-kissed afternoon by the water with a couple friends, singing classic songs with a guitar-yielding traveler from France and a Brazilian mermaid who carried the voice of an angel. Everything flowed so naturally, and I frolicked my heart out on the dock, feeling deeply connected to the sky, sun, trees, water, and earth like never before. I was barefoot with soil-stained soles, skin tanned to a crisp, unbothered by the mosquitoes and sweat of the 90-degree afternoon.

I suppose I blended in well, feeling so at home with my surroundings, that it appeared I had been in Pai for a long time.

“Have you ever heard of the Pai-hole?” he asked me.

I turned to look at him and paused for a moment, taking a break from flinging my hoop through the soggy air for hours, wiped the sweat off my brow, and exhaled.

“No, I haven’t…” I replied unconvincingly, denying what I suspected what was to come. “What is it?”

Florida was laying down on his back, peering up at the rich purple-colored sky with dazed, half-open eyes.

“The Pai-hole is what you get stuck in,” he explained dauntingly. “It’s when people come to Pai to visit for just a moment, but they end up getting sucked in. Backpackers will travel across the world, spending a few days in each place, hopping all around Southeast Asia, the mountains, the beaches, the islands,” he continued. “But when they come to Pai… well, they forget about all the plans they had, the rest of the trips they were going to make. They never leave.”

Shit, I thought, as I looked around at the overgrown grass, the last of the dusk light seeping into darkness. He’s right. I’ve gone complete, full dirty hippie, singing kumbaya songs to Mother Nature until the wind chill hits at night. I haven’t talked to my folks or friends back home in at least a week. I’ve halted all thoughts of my next buses, trains, or flights to catch, countries to visit. I don’t even wear sunscreen or bug repellant anymore in this jungle village under the scorching South Asian sun. I can’t walk down the streets of Pai without running into handfuls of friends and locals I know, which is always a delight. I spend my nights parading with the circus freaks and dancing to the beat of (literal) drums. I’m living 100% in the present moment, and I absolutely love it.

But I wouldn’t admit it openly yet, the slightest tinge of anxiety creeping in as night fell, thinking about truly getting sucked in to this supposed black hole.

“Nah,” I countered, starting to sway with my hoop again. “That just sounds like something people made up!”

On my right, France suddenly looked up from his guitar, even though he had stopped playing a while ago.

“It’s a real thing,” he stated matter-of-factly. “You’re already in it.”

* * *

A few days after that evening, I woke up from my Pai slumber and decided to visit the neighboring area of Mae Hong Son for a new experience, trekking even deeper in the mountains – but I will always remember the beautiful moments shared in this psychedelic village close to my heart.

So what is it about the elusive Pai? What makes this city so compelling? Here are a few reasons why I believe this friendly town draws in droves of backpackers every year, making you never want to leave.

The community is full of creative artists and performers.

Do you love art, music, dance? Pai has it all. The difference between Pai and other cities, however, is the encouragement of creative expression without any judgment. It’s a great place to get your foot in the door, a chance to try performing in front of an audience for the first time, or to gain experience learning or teaching. This is why Pai fosters a creative hub for aspiring artists to play without hesitation.

Open mic nights offer a space for poets, musicians, and all types of dream-weavers to share their gifts to a supportive crowd. Fire shows and circus acts pop up at different hostels and venues every week. Live jazz, reggae, and acoustic performances are popular staples at restaurants and bars in town. Dance music DJs spin evening sets at open air pubs and the epic jungle parties.

In the related realm of creative spirits, Pai is a flow-centric town with yoga, acro-yoga, and ecstatic dance gatherings for all us new-age backpackers. And as I’ve mentioned before - if you’ve never even tried it, this is the perfect place to start!

You get to know everyone in town quickly.

Being a relatively small town, with the main roads being Walking Street and Bar street, you get the opportunity to run into the same people everywhere you go, even after just a couple days of visiting.

More importantly, the chill atmosphere between locals and foreigners is more inviting and welcoming compared with the disparity in Southern Thailand as many travelers have noted.

When it’s easy to make friends, you feel at home – even across the world. I also stayed in several different hostels which allowed me to meet more and more people.

Unfortunately for me and others staying in town for extended periods, I would get very close to new friends and then they would leave for other places, resulting in heartbreak every 3 days! But they all sheepishly said the same thing: “I wish I was staying longer.”

The vibes are trippy, hippie, chill, man.

Beyond the dreadlocked backpackers and vegged-out nomads, Pai emits psychedelic vibes in its own light, not just because of the visitors! Though it’s not the same “as it used to be years ago,” as the nature of change usually is, it’s still totally a place to trip out and take a breath. Chill.

Whether it’s lounging at a neon hidden hideout like Spirit Bar, whispering under the stars at Pai Yard Guesthouse, dusting in the depths of the Jungle Zone bashes, sitting in silence under the protection of the looming White Buddha, or gazing out into the orange-hilled sunset at Pai Canyon… there is a mystifying presence in the smokey air that you can’t quite put your finger on.

It’s a nature lover’s dream.

Several waterfalls rush through the corners of Pai, donating a generous dose of pools to cool off in the heat. Hiking trails overgrown with exotic plants hug your limbs as you trek through the misty jungle. The painted sunsets are unmatched over gentle mountains and aggressive rivers. Cold, eerie caves with frosted formations are an hour’s drive away. Reptiles, birds, ox, livestock and all types of insects make their home where they wish – not to mention the elephants at Elephant Camp!

While Pai has practically all the modern amenities one could wish for, it remains a gem for nature seekers who want the best of both worlds.

The Night Market is actually fun.

Unlike other busy night markets in Asia, Pai’s Night Market is a relaxing stroll every night. It’s a social hotspot where everyone meets up without even having to text, gulps a drink in the streets, pries for unique clothes, handicrafts, and of course, eats dinner every night!

Indulge in avocado tea leaf salad, grilled salted-and-buttered corn, savory steamed dumplings, sweet potato and pumpkin burgers, too-big-to-bite falafel pita wraps, fresh fruit smoothies, Thai-style tacos, quirky flavors of bruschetta or flatbreads, chewy banana-nutella crepes or ‘roti’… and these are only the vegetarian options.

Ok, so maybe the globalization is getting a bit out of hand here. But the prices are unbeatable (about $1 to $4 USD per dish for the street vendors), and it’s a tempting break from eating pad thai and fried rice for every other meal.

The longer you stay, the more hidden gems you encounter.

Staying in Pai is like reading a book: the more you read, the more into it you get. That’s because a lot of the magic is only spread through word of mouth and therefore cannot be found from doing research online or in books. I suppose some secrets are best to be kept.

What treasures, you might ask? I bet I barely know a handful, compared with those who live there, but to give you a taste… A sauna attached to a dance venue. Infinity pools stretching over the mountains. Psychedelic mushroom shakes and farms. Spontaneous drum circles. Bamboo tattoo boys. River-dwelling reiki masters. Shamans, medicinal herbalists. Friendly Thai mothers who invite you into their guesthouses for warm eats and sleeps, treating you more like family than a hotel guest. Fat, furry dogs and cats brushing past your calves at every establishment. Mind-blowing painters and woodworkers. Outdoor wine bars with vocalists belting their souls out into the forest. Peculiar postcard shops adorned with lovely murals and emotional quotes. A new tribe of friends from every continent. (Ok, maybe not Antarctica). And again, blacklight jungle parties, where you have to cross rivers and secret pathways to get there!

But we can’t give up alllll the secrets. You’ll have to see for yourself what the love is all about.

Just don’t get stuck in the Pai-hole.

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The best moments can’t truly be captured, right?

Molly Sinclair

February 24, 2020

Asia, Thailand

How to Get Around Pai, Thailand Without a Scooter / Motorbike

Molly Sinclair

February 24, 2020

Asia, Thailand

If you make it up the notoriously windy road to the secluded town of Pai in Northern Thailand, you are in for treats of serenity, scenic landscapes, and relaxing vibes. Over 700 sharp turns up the mountain from Chiang Mai, this laidback “backpacker’s paradise” is far from urban life, which is the reason why we go, right?

However, the secluded nature of the spread-out village can be a disadvantage if you do not have a way to get around. There is no Grab / Uber taxi up in the mountains; you’re on your own, baby!

While experienced bikers will opt for a motorbike / scooter / whatever you would like to call it, I chose not to ride one in Asia. Many people asked me why, claiming that having one is the only way to get around. This is not the case, as I have gone everywhere that I wanted to go throughout my trip thus far without a motorbike, including my near 3-week stay in Pai.

The obvious reason I chose not to ride a motorbike was due to meeting many travelers who got in accidents – some surviving with a few scratches, others breaking bones, and one friend of a friend even died (in another part of Southeast Asia).

Not only do I possess no motorbike experience, but Thailand drivers drive on the left-hand side, sometimes dangerously. Plus, if you want to drink alcohol you do not want to be stuck with a scooter. In addition to the pitfalls of accidents, I also dodged rental fees and parking fees.

Yes, I am sure that if I rented a motorbike, I would probably be fine – especially with my crazy L.A. driving skills – but I chose not to take the risk because I didn’t need to! Here are all the options concerning how you can get around without a motorbike in Pai.

Walk.

If you are a traveler, you must like walking, right? Not only does strolling have an obvious benefit of exercise, but you also see much more on foot that you miss on a vehicle. You catch glimpses of wildlife, encounter local culture, and run into other travelers – taking you on unexpected adventures or chances for photo opportunities.

But of course, you are trying to get to the main attractions! Specifically, we walked to the Night Market, the White Buddha, Mae Yen Waterfalls, and all the main restaurants, shops and friend’s hostels. I even walked to Paradise Backpackers for the fire show, or Pai Circus Hostel for their jams, both of which are out in the boonies. Come on, you’re in Pai, the views are beautiful!

Even when I stayed in Pai Yard Guesthouse, one mile from the main street, I still walked everywhere. You know, the doctor recommends 10,000 steps a day, and I was in no rush… yes, even up a steep hill under the blazing sun (Now I’m just showing off).

Unless you are staying more than 2 miles from town, my top recommendation is to walk.

Ride on the back of a friend’s scooter.

For excursions on the perimeter of Pai, such as the Mor Paeng Waterfalls, Pai Canyon, Bamboo Bridge, Chinese Village or Memorial Bridge, you will have no trouble meeting friends at a hostel that are going to these spots just minutes away – and motorbikes fit two people! Just offer to split gas and parking, and make sure they know how to ride with a passenger.

If you truly don’t meet anyone with a scooter, or want to head to the farther attractions, see my next bullet point.

Take a tour.

If you’re short on time, a tour is a convenient, affordable way to see all the top attractions in one day and includes all entrance fees. The mystical Lod Cave takes an hour to get to and is usually combined with a trip to the Sai Ngam Hot Springs, along with most of the locations mentioned above.

Other active adventures you can book include jungle trekking, river tubing, and days at the Elephant Camp!

You can book tours on Walking Street, but I found that each hostel often had access to slightly better hooked-up prices.

Use accommodation services.

Did you know that many hostels, businesses, and restaurants that are outside the main area of town will pick you up for free? Yes, even restaurants! These locations understand that they are located far from the center and are usually just a Whatsapp call away.

Whether you are trying to dine at a wine bar, stretch at a yoga class, or just put your bags down at your hotel, send the business a message online if they are not within walking distance and ask if they will pick you up.

Rent a bicycle.

See the sights with a good old-fashioned bicycle. Choose an accommodation that has one for rent, or find a two-wheeler in town for dirt cheap. Of course, riding a bicycle would be a quick alternative to walking, not for daring missions around the landscape of Mae Hong Son, but it will allow you to visit friends, run errands, and hit spots like Bar Street or Mae Yen area in no time, just to name a few.

Hail a taxi – only when you need to.

The only time I had a real taxi car was when I arrived in Pai off the 3-hour van ride with two heavy bags and my hostel was miles away in the unforgiving, 100-degree sun. It was “expensive” ($2.50 USD) but I just wanted to get there after that nauseating journey.

But be aware, “taxis” usually consist of a metal crate attached to the side of a motorbike. You may feel like cattle, but it will get you to your destination if you hold on tight aboard the hills!

Taxis are sparse and can start to add up if you need the driver to wait for you at each location for the return trip. If you have 2 or 3 people it may be worth it for a taxi that can be booked on Walking Street, but you never really know if you are being picked up in the cattle car, on the back of a motorbike, or in a real van. There are also the open trucks with benches in the back that appear, that usually charge a flat rate per person. These are often uncomfortable methods of transportation and you have to hang on to steel bars so that you don’t fall out along zig zag roads – but hey, these clunkers will get you to the jungle parties!

In Closing…

Don’t worry – if you have your heart set on getting somewhere, you will find a way. Heck, I even hitchhiked around Pai; easier for a solo traveler to hop on the back of a motorbike. Not saying you can trust everyone, but you will know the moments when everyone is going the same direction, like down the single road to the fire show. Just know that despite what everyone will tell you, you don’t need a motorbike to get around the wonderous world called Pai!

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Featuring photos from my article: “How I Got Stuck in the Pai-Hole: Why Thailand’s Mountain Town is Hard to Escape”

Molly Sinclair

February 10, 2020

Asia, Thailand

What I Wish I Knew Before Visiting Doi Suthep, Thailand

Molly Sinclair

February 10, 2020

Asia, Thailand

If you are visiting Chiang Mai, Thailand’s second largest city to Bangkok, you will most likely pay a visit to the gold temple on the hill: Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, and the surrounding area. However, before you go blindly visit the sacred site like I did, take heed of these tips to make your day efficient.

I had a fantastic time regardless, with the dripping-gold monuments almost blinding me, and the views I will truly never forget.

Doi Suthep is the name of the mountain, not the temple.

This one was a rookie mistake on my part, but it resulted in unexpected beautiful scenery, so I can’t complain.

If you search “Doi Suthep” in your GPS, you will end up driving for a while up windy roads in the forest. When we got to a one-way road, we started to grow suspicious. Finally, Google Maps told us, “You have arrived!” in the middle of the forest.

Although Doi Suthep is the colloquial abbreviation that everyone uses when discussing the landmark, the full name of the temple is Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep. The error sent us about 30 minutes past the real location, but the cool breeze up in the mountains and gorgeous sun rays peaking through the trees was a refreshing break from the hot and dry city level anyhow.

Doi Suthep mountain is 5,500 feet (1,676 meters) high and looks over Chiang Mai.

The dress code at Bhubing Palace is extraordinarily formal.

If you have entered temples before, you know the basics of covering your knees, shoulders, and taking off your shoes. But Bhubing Palace, the next stop down the road for many travelers, has a notoriously formal dress code.

Both men and women must wear thick clothing (my top was deemed too see-through) that basically goes down to the ankles, with tops that have longer sleeves. Most people in 90 degree heat are not walking around covered head to toe, so fortunately there are shops outside the palace that rents clothing for a price equivalent to $1 USD per clothing item, plus a deposit.

However, you might not get to choose your outfit, with resulted in this garish colored garb I was stuck to parade around with!

Half of the year, you cannot even enter the Palace. But they will still sell you a ticket.

After succumbing to the elegant traditional wardrobe (love the style; I just didn’t prefer the colors), we bought tickets to Bhubing Palace for around $3 USD each, only to walk around the grounds and find out - along with other confused foreigners - that we were only allowed to see the royal gardens.

The palace is the royal winter residence of the Thai Royal Family. Therefore, during the winter months, you cannot enter the enticing palace, but you may view the many acres of exotic flowers and plants, charismatic trees, sparkling reservoir, and sloping hillsides, which I admit were quite impressive. I only wish that the ticket office let us know before purchasing tickets.

If anyone asks, I had the best time. Remember, "whoever defames, insults or threatens the King, the Queen, the Heir-apparent or the Regent, shall be punished with imprisonment of three to fifteen years."

Epic waterfalls are near the temple; you can see one the same day.

Save on transportation costs and swim at gushing waterfalls near Doi Suthep in the same day. I wish I visited one of these when I made the 40-minute trip to Doi Suthep, but ended up checking them out on different days.

The following waterfalls are near the Doi Suthep area west of Chiang Mai, and you will only need a couple hours at each one:

Mae Sa Waterfall – 10 levels of pools, with swimming and plenty of room to picnic.

Monthathan Waterfall – located inside Doi Suthep-Pui National Park with a swimming hole and multiple levels.

Huay Kaew Waterfall – Short walking trail in a picturesque setting, but usually only flowing during rainy season or right after.

Mae Sa waterfall has 10 levels of swimming pools. Shh… the top one is the best.

There are often police checkpoints on the way to Doi Suthep, checking for your international driver’s license.

Being a popular tourist attraction, you are likely to hit a checkpoint leaving Chiang Mai if you are driving. If you don’t have an international license, the fine will be about $15 USD. They pull you over, charge the fine, and you are on your way in a minute, so it’s not a huge deal. I believe after this ticket, you can drive for another 3 days before being fined again, but no guarantees with Thai police.

Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep’s gold-latent interior, breathtaking views, and new construction is indeed stunning.

Is the famous temple worth the hype? In my opinion, yes! Though we had visited many, many, many other temples in Southeast Asia, this one is close to the city and definitely worth visiting if you are in Chiang Mai.

…Just get ready for the gargantuan, exhausting staircase to get to the top.

Happy travels!

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Molly Sinclair

February 3, 2020

Vietnam, Asia

3 Magical Cities to Visit in Central Vietnam

Molly Sinclair

February 3, 2020

Vietnam, Asia

White sand beaches, ancient ruins, and magnificent architecture – this is just the tip of the palm tree when it comes to Central Vietnam’s highlights.

The dynamic region brings a beautiful blend of North and South dialects, powerful history, and nature’s greatest wonders.

Weather throughout the nation’s middle can be dramatically different than other parts of the country as the coast waxes and wanes across the Pacific. One town can be rainy and cold while it can suddenly become sunny and warm minutes away!

So, where to dive into first?

Between the major hubs of Hanoi in the North and Ho Chi Minh City in the South lie several charismatic towns that are worth the bus, train, or car trip. You will breathe a swooning sigh when exploring these small towns and intimate neighborhoods, that make you feel like a local more than a tourist.

Though I have not had the privilege to greet every city along the way, these three unforgettable destinations waved a magical mark while traveling throughout this beautiful country.

Phong Nha

A cute village around an hour inland of Dong Hoi, Phong Nha’s main attraction is the mystifying Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. Whether you are a serious trekker looking for a 4-day descent into the world’s largest caves (probably bigger than your hometown), or a relaxed traveler looking for an equally stunning nature experience, you will find your heart’s desire in Phong Nha.

There are dry caves you can walk through, wet caves that require a boat or kayak, and even dark caves where you can zipline! Even if you are not a fanatic cave dweller, bat or spider enthusiast, you and your whole family will be awe-struck by the million-year-old geological formations in these enormous, colorful caves. It feels like you entire a time machine and are transported to another planet.

We are fortunate to be able to visit the caves, as many were not open to the public until the 1990’s, when the local cities decided to share this gift to the world. For more information on the cave experiences, look into the cave systems of Tu Lan, Hang En, Paradise Cave (Hang Thien Duong), Tien Son, or Hang Son Doong. The most popular attractions you can simply show up to, while the more strenuous tours (climbing, rappelling, camping) may require several months booking in advance.

Besides these underground enigmas, Phong Nha is a great escape from the city to kilometers and kilometers of rich landscapes, wild flora and fauna, river havens, and peaceful rice fields. The simple life. This quiet town is the perfect place to ride a motorbike for the first time, to embark on an epic hike towards the heavenly mountains, to see porcupines at peacocks at the botanical gardens, or to fish along the river, if that’s your jam. Just writing about the experience makes me fall in love all over again!

Hue

Positioned with ancient allure, Hue is the city that will enchant you.

The Imperial Citadel is the main attraction of Hue, where Emperors throughout history resided. Within these magnificent grounds are impeccably coiffed gardens, preserved ancient ruins, historical buildings and holy spaces.

The intricately designed grounds can take up to a full day to explore if you visit everything, and there are photo-worthy views with every step.

Beyond the Imperial City, the Royal Tombs of each Emperor are spread out through the town, again with impeccable architecture that draws visitors from around the world.

Gorgeous bridges and rivers surround Hue – how about a dragon boat ride at sunset?

Most of the city’s attractions are walkable, which brings me to the next best feature of Hue – the New City. The streets and back alleys come to life at night, with wild nightlife and every kind of cuisine imaginable - something rare to find in Southeast Asia. I mean, I didn’t travel all the way from California to go to a 50’s American Diner in the middle of Central Vietnam (complete with doo-wop tunes, barstool countertops and all), but the folks in Hue spin their own take on different world cultures in a cheeky way.

The New City attracts travelers from all over, but it doesn’t get overly crowded or touristy, even on the neon-sign streets and rooftop clubs. Hue is a hidden gem that showcases the beautiful blend of Old and New generations in evolving Vietnam in a lighthearted way.

Hoi An

After jam-packed days of traveling, tours, and treks throughout the country, Hoi An was the most relaxing part of my trip, and ended up being my favorite stop. But don’t get the wrong idea – the quiet town south of busy Da Nang is still filled with plenty to do, see, and taste.

Hoi An is known for its Ancient City, with brightly painted yellow and red walls, cobblestone pathways and historical landmarks like the Japanese Covered Bridge.

In the day, colorful paddle boats line the lazy river, a picturesque backdrop giving hints of old Vietnam. At night, the sleepy river is full of shining lanterns that you can release to the spirits for good luck and happiness.

Outside of the main areas, the roads are slow enough to ride bicycles (or a motorbike) to see the miles of rice paddies with ox roaming the land. Yes, you will see rice paddies throughout Asia, but make sure to stop in Hoi An for random vegetable villages, secret smoothie shops, and hammock-hanging lounges along the way.

But my favorite feature of all? The beach!

We stayed by An Bang Beach, smooth with soft white sand, warm water waves and lined with restaurants that offer freshly caught seafood. Oysters, clams, mussels, lobster – you will find it all at this Pacific Coast jewel. The best dish I had in Asia so far was a sweet and savory seafood wonton crisp in a mom and pop shop one street before the shore… like a tangy ceviche!

Bonus: My Son Sanctuary

Technically not part of Hoi An, but one day trip under an hour from the city worth visiting is My Son Sanctuary, a UNESCO heritage site of ancient Champa ruins from the 7th to 13th centuries. These Hindu ruins are often dubbed “a smaller Angkor Wat”, the famous site in Siem Reap, Cambodia.

My Son Sanctuary was a rich cultural experience, and you can peruse the on-site museum before checking out the ruins to learn of the symbolism and significance, or take a group tour. Personally, we preferred not taking the group tour so that you have less people in your photos, and more time to linger at each section of the ruins.

How to Get to these Magic Places

None of the cities listed have airports, which makes them gems less discovered, so you will have to take transportation by land. You will have to fly in to Dong Hoi and start from the North, or fly into Da Nang in the South.

Make sure to book train tickets in advance to guarantee transportation that works with your schedule.

My travel partner and I did not book in advance and all the trains were full, so we had to split the cost of a private driver between two people.

Fortunately, there were definitely advantages to having a private driver: shorter driving time, amenities like air conditioning, Wi-Fi, and even a microphone for karaoke (?!), as well as being able to stop along the way at mystical spots like Lang Co Lagoon. That being said, if you are on a strict budget you will want to book the train or bus which are about a fourth of the cost of private cars.

If you take a private car between Hue and Hoi An, take a rest stop at the ethereal Lang Co Lagoon.

Gallery

A glimpse of the cultural and historical gold mines in these less-touristy communities.

Phong Nha

Hue

Hoi An

My Son Sanctuary

Molly Sinclair

January 27, 2020

Vietnam, Asia

Hidden Highlights of Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Molly Sinclair

January 27, 2020

Vietnam, Asia

For many travelers who fly into Vietnam, the metropolis of Ho Chi Minh City is the launching point to start their journey in the South. While plenty of information exists regarding the city’s war-wrenched history, the top cultural attractions, and why locals still call the center by its former name of Saigon, this article will touch on the alternative favorites that may have fallen below the radar. What did I truly love about this city, and how did it win me over?

First, a quick note. Before I knew much about Vietnam, my mind imagined jungle vibes, wildlife, and boat rides. I am elated to share that all these notions were true throughout the diverse country! However, what I also found in the needle-narrow alleyways of the city, in the outskirts of the districts, and beyond any major attractions were the following hidden highlights, doused in a strong dose of personality, charm and mystique.

The Rush of the Streets

Not for the faint of heart, the streets of Saigon are a real thrill. Well, if you’re the type that loves the adrenaline rush of a rollercoaster or racecar, you will enjoy it – others may not! Either way, exercise caution on these streets.

The streets are lawless, meaning basically anything goes. (Mom, you should stop reading now). Traveling the opposite direction headfirst into traffic? Our drivers risked it. Multiple vehicles racing beside each other in one lane? Normal. Any sort of dividing lines, signs, or traffic lights? Forget about it!

Hopping on the back of a motorbike became a devilish thrill to me. I actually looked forward to calling Grab bikes (an Asia alternative to Uber rideshare). I can’t say you won’t get hurt, as street accidents are the leading injury in Saigon, but you may as well trust these drivers, as they do this every day.

Even crossing the street on foot was a rush as there are rarely traffic lights for pedestrians, so you must walk into the direct path of hundreds of motorbikes that seem to magically maneuver around you at the last possible second As a local told me as he was walking into the mouth of the madness… “Just go!”

Festive Celebrations

This one was a complete coincidence, as our trip plans kept getting pushed back due to scheduling, but we happened to visit Vietnam during Tet Festival, or Vietnamese New Years. Lucky lucky! Because of this fluke, we had the privilege of celebrating with the city during the most joyful time of the year.

Colorful flowers, banners, flags and over-the-top décor lined the streets and downtown squares for weeks. At night, illuminating lights adorned every hotel, restaurant, and shop, just like Westerners do for Christmas. We witnessed lion dancers, street performers, and electric nightlife throughout the holiday.

Beds of flowers and creatures adorn Ho Chi Minh Square during the weekend of Tet Festival 2020.

The Tet Holiday lasts over a week, and keep in mind that prices will be slightly higher if booking last minute for hotels or transportation, and many places will be closed. However, in my opinion it was worth the trade off for such a special occasion.

While Tet takes place in January or February depending on the year, there are other celebrations throughout the year to plan your trip around, like the Mid Autumn Tet festival.

Thought-Provoking Temples

While trotting around Southeast Asia, you might amble through temples on every block, but hear me out – the most memorable temples that borrow your breath are the ones tucked away behind farmhouses, fields or alleyways… the ones that are not necessarily in the center of town or crammed with sardines of onlookers.

Every religious temple is special and holy, but I found solace in the harmony of hidden pagodas such as “Ten Thousand Buddhas Temple” Chua Van Phat, which blocks your gaze from the street out in the urban area of District 5, or the “Floating Temple” Phu Chau (Mieu Noi) out in the boonies of the Go Vap District, that calls for a ferry ride after a 40 minute drive from the city. The feather in your cap for going the extra mile to reach these sanctuaries is more space for prayer, reflection, and of course, private photos!

Ten Thousand Buddhas Pagoda is one temple worth a visit off the beaten path.

Fearless Food

Another fortuitous feature of Saigon is the hole-in-the-wall street food. Often, the street vendors dish out fresher food than some restaurants or hotels. Even more delectable is the friendly atmosphere – we were treated more like family members dining in the living room at certain establishments, while the nicer restaurants offered less appetizing service and felt impersonal.

Every street in each district is lined with tempting tastes - I don’t savor a go-to spot to recommend, as I like to sample dewy new picks every meal. My favorite dishes (though I eat primarily vegetarian) were eggplant clay pot, potato pancakes, stir-fried tofu noodles and fresh vegetables.

And how could I forget… the exotic fruit here is deliciously sweet!

Thumping Techno

To my pleasant surprise, the Vietnamese love their techno, house, and electronic dance music. Saigon sings its own recognizable sound (think big-room dance bangers, with occasional trap breakdowns and royal crooners) heard every day in nightclubs, bars, taxis, on TV, and in establishments. The sound systems from even the smallest shops blasted so loud you could probably hear them from the Mekong Delta River!

I understand that this type of music is probably not everyone’s cup of tea, but for high energy music fans that desire a dance floor, you can tip tap to several throughout the diverse districts, not just the downtown areas of District 1.

Wandering around on foot allows for the most spontaneous days in this charismatic city.

Getting Lost on Foot

Don’t be afraid to get lost. Turning down the “wrong” corner leads to finding surprise adventures. I recommend taking a cab to another district you haven’t explored yet (there are 19 in the city area), and then walk around to stumble upon treasures you could only run into on foot.

Troves we unearthed unexpectedly: a restaurant where each table sits in the water surrounded by koi fish. A weathered theme park in the middle of Chinatown. Shrines with signs detailing the repercussions of good and bad karma. Temples with monks chanting. Historical buildings with French architecture. A sweet little old lady who spoke no English but grabbed our hands and guided us across a bridge. Flute-playing street performers. And a bamboo basket full more, but I will end the list with this one: my favorite treat after a humid 95-degree walk… sweet, cold coconut drinks!

Gallery

Barely a snippet of the topics discussed in this lively city.

Molly Sinclair

January 19, 2020

Asia, Travel Tips, Tips - On Your Trip

How to Explore any Connecting City During a Long Layover

Molly Sinclair

January 19, 2020

Asia, Travel Tips, Tips - On Your Trip

Have you ever day dreamed about exploring a city during your long layover, but not sure if it is worth the hassle?

I’ve done it multiple times… and let me tell you, it was definitely worth it!

No one likes waiting in the airport and sitting for long periods of time, but sometimes flights with long layovers are the only options due to finances and time constraints.

So just leave the airport during your layover, explore, and come back… right?

Not exactly.

First, there are important things to consider before leaving the airport, so it would be best if you read this before you book that flight and travel. However, if you’ve already booked your flight, these tips will still help you make the most of your time, to not make the mistakes I made, and to make sure you get to your connection on time!

Let’s get to it. Here are my best tips for exploring the area comfortably during your long layover.

1. Trust your instincts.

When I first relayed to my family and friends that I was planning on entering the city during my 10-hour layover in Tokyo, Japan, I heard several valid concerns.

“You won’t have enough time to enter the city!”

“You’ll miss your connecting flight!”

“Going through Immigration / Customs twice will be too much of a hassle.”

“What will you do with your luggage?”

Maybe they are right, I thought. It would be easier to just wait in the airport. But the adventurer in me said, no – you will be passing through Tokyo anyway, so let’s do this thing!

Remember that not everyone has the same style of travel, and that’s ok. Thank your friends and family for having your best interest, but don’t let naysayers prevent you from following through your plans if you’ve done your research. (I ended up having a fantastic night, although I did get extremely sleepy as the evening progressed!)

Tip: Trust your gut, whether that is staying in the airport or leaving to explore. Now on to the real tips.

2. Pick the right airport.

Major cities may have more than one airport. Make sure that the airport you are flying into is close to the city center, or the sights you would like to see. You will have to factor in the transportation time to and from the airport, as well as the costs associated with it.

For example, I was able to visit Tokyo from Haneda Airport, only 40 minutes from the area I wanted to see, Shinjuku. If I was flying into Tokyo at Narita Airport, it is about 90 minutes each way, and may not have been worth it for me.

Tip: Double check the airport that you are flying into and look up the distances to the sights you want to see in the surrounding area.

3. Note the time of day you are arriving and returning.

Are you arriving at night? Bear in mind some attractions may not be open at all hours of the day, or some areas may be unsafe to walk around at night. The heat may be unbearable in the day, or the traffic entering the city could be wild during rush hour!

If you are excited to travel, however, I do believe you can always find something to do at any time. Maybe you cannot hit the beach at night, but instead can find a cool restaurant or rooftop bar to visit.

Do not assume that all methods of transportation will be available at all hours. The trains may close in the evening, or taxis will be tough to call in certain areas. Have a plan (or two) to get back to the airport safely and on time.

Tip: Look up timetables for transportation and attractions, and make sure you are not entering unsafe areas at the wrong time.

4. Allow time for necessities.

Unless your first flight was short, it is rare to just walk off the plane and be good to go. For your own comfort, factor in the time it will take you to walk through the large airport, go through customs and handle your Visa requirements - some countries may let you enter the country briefly without one, while others you will have to apply for in advance.

You may need to find a SIM card , exchange currency, grab something to eat or drink, freshen up or even shower.

Next, figure out what you will need to do to check in to your next flight later when returning to the airport, such as transferring your bags if taking separate airlines, or acquiring a new boarding pass. Domestic flights can skip some of these steps.

Research the airport layout online to save time when finding certain services, or at least where the information desk is. This will save you the hassle of walking back and forth with heavy bags.

Tip: Allow more time than you think as some airports are much larger than others and may have long lines.

5. Be comfortable and prepare ahead.

Make sure you are comfortable during your layover. Bring toiletries in your carry-on; you will definitely want that toothbrush, toothpaste, comb, and deodorant before leaving the airport!

What will the weather be like when you land? Bring a change of clothes or extra layers, as your final destination’s weather may be very different than the connecting city. You may need an umbrella, or it could be extremely humid.

Do you need certain apps downloaded beforehand? Will you have WiFi or use a SIM card?

When choosing an outfit, read about the customs of that country to blend in and risk wearing something offensive. Some countries will frown upon skimpy clothing or require you to cover your head.

Tip: Make sure your clothing, toiletries, and any accessories you might want (camera, day pack, rain boots?) are all prepared for landing.

6. Prepare for language barriers.

Even though most airports will have signs in English, be ready for the language barrier to make everything take a little longer when flying internationally. Basic chores can be trickier in another language, like finding where something is or figuring out how to buy a train ticket. (The airport had English options on the monitor when I took a train into Tokyo, but the station at Shinjuku did not).

Don’t worry though, millions of people travel every day without knowing the language of other cities. You will be fine, especially since you know English, since you are reading this article!

That being said, it is better to prepare. Sometimes translation apps or dictionaries are not completely accurate, and you may not want to be constantly whipping out your phone in an area popular with pickpockets, not to mention you may not have time in common conversation to look up things. Instead, learn a few phrases or important words to ease your mind.

Most importantly, write down the addresses or places you want to go before hand so if you cannot speak the language, you can at least show the address to the cab driver, airport staff, or whoever you are speaking to so they can understand where you are trying to go.

Tip: Write down phrases and important addresses before you go, and research as much as you can beforehand in English.

7. Have a plan for baggage collection and storage.

Not all airlines will transfer your baggage to the next flight, especially if you are taking two different airlines, so it is extremely important to check airline policies online beforehand as well as doublechecking in person with flight staff. You can also track your baggage through your phone if the airline has an app for that, to ease your mind even more.

Even if your checked baggage is automatically transferred to the connecting flight, you may still want to store your carry-on baggage while you explore the city. I prefer the Coin Lockers than the baggage storage operated by staff, because they are cheaper and I am able to access my bags anytime. Also, you can store multiple items for the same cost. Just don’t lose the key!

Tip: Triple check baggage policies to avoid leaving your items at baggage claim, and use a locker for storage.

8. Consider meeting a guide in the city.

Don’t skip this number even if you are on a budget! I found a great local guide on Airbnb who showed me around Tokyo for just $45 USD. If you are not aware already, Airbnb has Experiences you can book, not just Stays, and these are often more affordable and less touristy than a professional tour.

You may want to consider doing a brief tour or private guide to make the best use of your time, help with the language, and take you to the local spots less visited.

Yes, booking things beforehand can be risky if your flight is delayed, so give yourself enough time to get there and hope for the best. It just felt nice to know that I had someone to meet up with and a plan when I arrived.

There are also dating or meetup apps you can use to meet with someone for a few hours, and those are usually free! As always, meet in a public place and let them know you are just in town for a day, but you will find that many people will be happy to hang out or practice their English with you.

Tip: A local guide, tour or activity can make things easier in a short amount of time. You will likely have to book beforehand.

9. Use your coins before departing (international flights).

Ok, I learned this the hard way. You cannot exchange coins at most currency exchanges, so make sure to use them before departing. Anyone want to trade me for $13 in Japanese Yen?

Tip: Try not to be left with any international coins, unless you want souvenirs.

10. Get some rest before if you can.

Not going to lie, you will probably be tired during your layover. Even if you plan on sleeping on the plane beforehand, the time difference can take a toll.

On the plus side, I found that this sleepiness dissipates when you step off the plane and embark on activities. The excitement will power you through!

Tip: Leave flexibility in your plans, as you may be too tired to do everything.

11. Focus on the positives

I understand that after reading this article, it may seem like a lot. But if you focus on the huge positive, getting to explore a city, you will have a blast.

The reason I started enjoying layovers actually came from fear. When I was flying to Australia from the U.S., I feared the long plane ride, so I stopped in Hawaii each way to break up the flight.

The day-long layovers each way ended up being a highlight of my trip - I got to surf with locals at sunrise, hike through the jungle to a waterfall, eat local ahi tuna and meet some new friends!

It is totally worth it to book a long layover, resulting in a break from the stuffy airport - and incredible to get some fresh air, stretch, explore a new part of the world and relax.

Additionally, you will eat better local food and find cheaper drinks than you would in an airport, and arguably have a more enjoyable shopping experience in the city if you want some real souvenirs.

How exhilarating to start your adventures right away - and the time goes by way faster.

Most of all, it doesn’t feel like you are on a layover!

Closing Summary

If you have taken these steps to prepare for your layover beforehand, you will have everything mapped out and ready to go.

During my last trip, the customs process took only a couple minutes, and I was out the airport within an hour. Totally worth it!

Follow your gut instinct, and be ready to change plans if you have to. Your comfort, enjoyment, and safety are top priorities. Happy travels!

Gallery

I had a radical time exploring Tokyo during my 10 hour layover - a fantastic choice at night… although I could barely open my eyes by the end!

Molly Sinclair

January 1, 2020

Asia, Thailand

My Favorite Things to Do Near Chiang Mai, Thailand

Molly Sinclair

January 1, 2020

Asia, Thailand

When planning my trip to Thailand, I had heard so much hype surrounding Chiang Mai and couldn’t wait to arrive in the Old City in the north.

However, as with any big city, I was a bit lost upon landing. What are the true highlights worth visiting, and what is simply a tourist trap? What is it that gives Chiang Mai its character? Is it all about the Old City Square, or is it necessary to venture outside of the main town?

What we discovered in this blazing hot urban hub was a little bit of both worlds: there are treasures within the popular center of town, but it is also essential to embark on a quest to the surrounding areas of Chiang Mai to grasp the full experience.

The modern new town is creative, full of rich art and music with a youthful flavor, juxtaposed with scattered remnants of old city temples and monuments. Beyond the center, you will want to take day trips to discover national parks, waterfalls, elephant sanctuaries, mountains, and more.

Note: it is not necessary to stay in the higher-priced accommodations within the tourist-filled square; you can easily stay outside the river perimeter and simply walk everywhere for a more relaxed visit.

Though I am sure this list is equivalent to one drop of spice in a bowl of Tom Yum, here are my favorite things to do in Chiang Mai!

Visit the elephant sanctuaries.

Spending time with elephants was one of my two favorite days I spent near Chiang Mai. It was a rewarding experience I will remember for the rest of my life.

We participated in Elephant Delight Project, which was run by Elephant Nature Park, one of the top ethical elephant sanctuaries in Thailand. Rather than just visit the nature park with dozens of elephants, we opted for the project because it gave us the opportunity to spend time with a select few elephants in their natural habitat. We hiked with four elephants through the mountains, prepared their food and fed them, and bathed the mud off their backs in the river.

Each of these adorable elephants carried a majestic presence. Females ranging in all ages, some were sweet, some were sassy, and all were so lovable. They portrayed a silent power, a captivating aura that humbled me and felt close to them. The mighty way they strolled, the slow movements, and their welcoming nature left me in a sense of awe that lasted all the way home, long after we had left. In short, I truly missed them after feeling that closeness to these beautiful beings.

The entire day’s cost, which included pickup from our hotel in Chiang Mai and lunch, was about $80 USD. If you are traveling on a budget… you should still, 100% choose to make this your splurge. It was completely worth it. After all, what are we traveling for other than life-changing moments like these? Just make sure your sanctuary is a no-riding, ethical sanctuary.

Climb Sticky Waterfalls.

Other than the elephant sanctuary, my next favorite day in Chiang Mai was spent at Bua Tong Waterfalls, also known as Sticky Waterfalls. The name references the strong grip of the rocks, so sticky that you can walk up and down them. Just be careful not to step on the green rocks, as those are the slippery ones. Ropes will guide you and give you balance while the water rushes down, cooling you off in the heat.

About three levels of rapids run from top to bottom, giving you a fun challenge. Enjoy the pools at the bottom of each waterfall and take those epic pictures that make the falls look scarier than they are. (I mean, it’s safe even for kids, but I’ll admit I was glad that I had travel health insurance!).

To get to Bua Tong Waterfalls, you must drive about 75 minutes north from the city center, but it is certainly worth the excursion.

Eat, drink, and enjoy performances at the night markets.

Unlike the previous bullet points, the rest of the list are things you can do in the city center that require no travel besides your own two feet.

Chiang Mai is the absolute queen of night markets. There are different night markets on certain days of the week, like the Saturday walking street (Wua Lia) or Sunday walking street (Tha Pae), but there are also staples that run every night. Not only is the quantity of markets impressive, but the size of each are massive. They are never-ending streets that practically stretch across the city.

What creates the allure of the markets? Besides shopping for everything under the sun (tchotchkes, art, hand goods, ceramics, jewelry, mementos, watches, leather, silks, boatloads of clothing)… you can savor cheap food, guzzle down drinks, enjoy live entertainment and meet up with everyone in town. Dumplings, curry, sweet noodles, exotic fruit, fried insects, yum. It is a grand affair every night, especially the weekend markets, though it does get overly crowded in parts.

My favorite market is the biggest, yet most low-key as it is outside the city center: Anusaran Market, on the South East side. Most tourists do not make it out this far off the beaten path. I like how it is a more relaxed experience with more locals and lots of space. A high-ceiling tent with well-lit booths stretches to the back for what seems like a mile, or 2 kilometers! Plus, you can catch a Muay Thai fight, Lady Boy Caberet Show, or rock out to the bands at the bars.

Listen to live music.

Speaking of live entertainment, the night markets are full of musicians that play blues, rock, jazz, reggae, country, classics… we heard a lot of Western music.

For a more intimate experience, check out the North Gate Jazz Co-Op. The tiny bar belts out live music every night after 7pm in an open-air venue on the street. Besides jazz, the acts play an eclectic mix, like jam bands or rock. I was digging it, and it’s a mellow place to visit alone.

The Roots, Rock, Reggae bar, a chilled spot wedged between the crazy wild dance floors at Zoe in Yellow square, brings groovy reggae acts to the elevated stage. I was impressed by the talent in this diverse town that transported me to other worlds each night.

Discover edgy street art.

Around narrow corners and alleys are bright street murals with powerful messages. Growing up in Los Angeles, I have seen a lot of graffiti - but none possessed quite the positive vibe I witnessed in Chiang Mai.

Lots of creatures, animals, and artistic themes characterized the street art, just down the way from ancient temples and ruins. This new wave generation of tattooed Thai culture glared deep colors along the walls in contrast with the old city history throughout the city.

Get a Thai massage.

Come on, would the list be complete without a traditional Thai massage? The truth is, you will do a lot of walking during your travels, and the yoga-style massages will give you a deep stretch for around $5. The first time I got a massage in Chiang Mai, I returned the next day for another!

I usually pick a studio that has decent reviews online, but I have also just walked in and been lucky to receive a nice massage. There is also a massage place run by women that are ex-prisoners, as it is difficult for them to get a job in society after doing time. I stumbled across it by accident, on the north east corner of old square, and it was fantastic! She was a strong one, so don’t be afraid to give your preference on soft or hard.

Tipping is not required, but I always give a donation to the massage therapists as it is a nice gesture, and the service is much cheaper than in the Western World for the same amount of effort.

Wander into quiet, unforeseen temples.

In Chiang Mai’s Old City, gold and white Buddhist temples hide on almost every street. I had a more memorable experience in these unprecedented visits, contrasted with the most popular temples that charge fees to enter with crowds of people roaming in and out.

While we tried to navigate the streets to find the ancient ruins of Wat Chedi Luang (which is not hard to find, but we had just stepped off the plane), we would instead accidentally walk into smaller local temples with no one else inside besides monks watering the gardens.

These quiet temples felt the most sacred to me, as I could feel the tranquil energy and admire the intricate holy sites with glimmering red jewels and monuments, making sure to honor the space. Sometimes, the best kept secrets are along the roads less traveled by.

Attend holiday celebrations.

The perfect way to end my experience in Chiang Mai was at the Flower Festival, a 4-day extravaganza of colorful flowers and events throughout the parks and streets.

Friday brought dazzling lights around each of the four city gates: North, South, East, and West. The parade on Saturday morning was the main spectacle, with floats, marching bands, dancers, lady boys, and beauty queens strolling around the river. The grandest array of flowers was at Buak Hard park, where droves of people flocked to take photos among the roses and wildflowers of every type.

Try to visit Chiang Mai during the holiday season for a cheerful time. You can also visit during Songkran, Thai New Years, where everyone sprays each other with water for an entire week mid-April. Time to start planning a trip for next year!