If you make it up the notoriously windy road to the secluded town of Pai in Northern Thailand, you are in for treats of serenity, scenic landscapes, and relaxing vibes. Over 700 sharp turns up the mountain from Chiang Mai, this laidback “backpacker’s paradise” is far from urban life, which is the reason why we go, right?
However, the secluded nature of the spread-out village can be a disadvantage if you do not have a way to get around. There is no Grab / Uber taxi up in the mountains; you’re on your own, baby!
While experienced bikers will opt for a motorbike / scooter / whatever you would like to call it, I chose not to ride one in Asia. Many people asked me why, claiming that having one is the only way to get around. This is not the case, as I have gone everywhere that I wanted to go throughout my trip thus far without a motorbike, including my near 3-week stay in Pai.
The obvious reason I chose not to ride a motorbike was due to meeting many travelers who got in accidents – some surviving with a few scratches, others breaking bones, and one friend of a friend even died (in another part of Southeast Asia).
Not only do I possess no motorbike experience, but Thailand drivers drive on the left-hand side, sometimes dangerously. Plus, if you want to drink alcohol you do not want to be stuck with a scooter. In addition to the pitfalls of accidents, I also dodged rental fees and parking fees.
Yes, I am sure that if I rented a motorbike, I would probably be fine – especially with my crazy L.A. driving skills – but I chose not to take the risk because I didn’t need to! Here are all the options concerning how you can get around without a motorbike in Pai.
Walk.
If you are a traveler, you must like walking, right? Not only does strolling have an obvious benefit of exercise, but you also see much more on foot that you miss on a vehicle. You catch glimpses of wildlife, encounter local culture, and run into other travelers – taking you on unexpected adventures or chances for photo opportunities.
But of course, you are trying to get to the main attractions! Specifically, we walked to the Night Market, the White Buddha, Mae Yen Waterfalls, and all the main restaurants, shops and friend’s hostels. I even walked to Paradise Backpackers for the fire show, or Pai Circus Hostel for their jams, both of which are out in the boonies. Come on, you’re in Pai, the views are beautiful!
Even when I stayed in Pai Yard Guesthouse, one mile from the main street, I still walked everywhere. You know, the doctor recommends 10,000 steps a day, and I was in no rush… yes, even up a steep hill under the blazing sun (Now I’m just showing off).
Unless you are staying more than 2 miles from town, my top recommendation is to walk.
Ride on the back of a friend’s scooter.
For excursions on the perimeter of Pai, such as the Mor Paeng Waterfalls, Pai Canyon, Bamboo Bridge, Chinese Village or Memorial Bridge, you will have no trouble meeting friends at a hostel that are going to these spots just minutes away – and motorbikes fit two people! Just offer to split gas and parking, and make sure they know how to ride with a passenger.
If you truly don’t meet anyone with a scooter, or want to head to the farther attractions, see my next bullet point.
Take a tour.
If you’re short on time, a tour is a convenient, affordable way to see all the top attractions in one day and includes all entrance fees. The mystical Lod Cave takes an hour to get to and is usually combined with a trip to the Sai Ngam Hot Springs, along with most of the locations mentioned above.
Other active adventures you can book include jungle trekking, river tubing, and days at the Elephant Camp!
You can book tours on Walking Street, but I found that each hostel often had access to slightly better hooked-up prices.
Use accommodation services.
Did you know that many hostels, businesses, and restaurants that are outside the main area of town will pick you up for free? Yes, even restaurants! These locations understand that they are located far from the center and are usually just a Whatsapp call away.
Whether you are trying to dine at a wine bar, stretch at a yoga class, or just put your bags down at your hotel, send the business a message online if they are not within walking distance and ask if they will pick you up.
Rent a bicycle.
See the sights with a good old-fashioned bicycle. Choose an accommodation that has one for rent, or find a two-wheeler in town for dirt cheap. Of course, riding a bicycle would be a quick alternative to walking, not for daring missions around the landscape of Mae Hong Son, but it will allow you to visit friends, run errands, and hit spots like Bar Street or Mae Yen area in no time, just to name a few.
Hail a taxi – only when you need to.
The only time I had a real taxi car was when I arrived in Pai off the 3-hour van ride with two heavy bags and my hostel was miles away in the unforgiving, 100-degree sun. It was “expensive” ($2.50 USD) but I just wanted to get there after that nauseating journey.
But be aware, “taxis” usually consist of a metal crate attached to the side of a motorbike. You may feel like cattle, but it will get you to your destination if you hold on tight aboard the hills!
Taxis are sparse and can start to add up if you need the driver to wait for you at each location for the return trip. If you have 2 or 3 people it may be worth it for a taxi that can be booked on Walking Street, but you never really know if you are being picked up in the cattle car, on the back of a motorbike, or in a real van. There are also the open trucks with benches in the back that appear, that usually charge a flat rate per person. These are often uncomfortable methods of transportation and you have to hang on to steel bars so that you don’t fall out along zig zag roads – but hey, these clunkers will get you to the jungle parties!
In Closing…
Don’t worry – if you have your heart set on getting somewhere, you will find a way. Heck, I even hitchhiked around Pai; easier for a solo traveler to hop on the back of a motorbike. Not saying you can trust everyone, but you will know the moments when everyone is going the same direction, like down the single road to the fire show. Just know that despite what everyone will tell you, you don’t need a motorbike to get around the wonderous world called Pai!
Gallery
Featuring photos from my article: “How I Got Stuck in the Pai-Hole: Why Thailand’s Mountain Town is Hard to Escape”
