California

11 Free Things to Do on your Big Sur Drive in California

Are you heading on a Big Sur drive soon? Do you love waterfalls, hiking, beaches, wildlife…

…and being out of contact from the rest of the world?

Then read on because I am about to share my secrets with you, fellow budget traveler, with these 11 free things to do along the remote coast of Big Sur, California.

I’m a California native who has driven allll the way up and down our large state (from Mexico to Oregon and back) several times - both on my own and with friends.

I’ve written this article from my own recent experience doing the Big Sur drive post-pandemic with a friend. The untouched beach bluffs that greet you with a different personality every morning remain a photographer’s dream!

Note: Before you hit up these free things to do on your Big Sur drive, you absolutely need to make sure you have maps downloaded offline since the internet will not work at all on this remote coast. You can use the free app maps.me to download the map of California. Make sure you save all these locations beforehand, so you have all the hiking trails and campsite locations. You’ll need them.

Now, get ready to hit the road!

view of the pacific ocean from big sur drive on highway

Your Big Sur drive is the place to unplug, get lost, and find your spirit along the unforgiving coastline.

The Mystical Big Sur drive

Dark, brooding beaches exist without another pair of footprints in sight.

Purple sand sprawls next to thick sea stars chilling on rocks, while miniature crabs scuttle about.

Sparkling lime waterfalls surprise hikers at the end of miles and miles of overgrown forest trails.

And bushels of poison oak claw at you from every corner.

I spent 5 days with no cell service exploring the longest stretch of undisturbed coast in the United States: Big Sur, California.

90 miles along Pacific Coast Highway 1 in Central California from Carmel to San Simeon brims of rocky beaches with character and redwood mountains so steep they’ll bang up any car smaller than a Jeep.

Upon arrival, it is easy to understand why Big Sur glitters majestic.

For rugged campers or backpackers, the solitude experienced on the Big Sur drive is a dream. You must have an offline map to find your way around the less-visited landscape, while families will probably stick to the state parks.

Besides privacy, the preservation of the area maintains that Big Sur will always stay true; the flora and fauna will (hopefully) continue to flourish, and it gives people a chance to see how beautiful California would be without infrastructure.

rocky yellow beach with blue water and sky

Lastly, Big Sur wows due to its affordability. If you are craving a getaway and know how to pitch a tent, you can visit Big Sur for the price of food and gas.

I will note that state parks charge $10 for cars, but there are ways to get in free as well which I will detail below.

Ok Wolfette, here are 11 free things to do on your Big Sur drive in California, from a local:

11. Observe the Elephant Seals in San Simeon

Location on Google Maps: Elephant Seal Vista Point

elephant seals lying down on beach shore

Those aren’t rocks… they’re elephant seals laying down!

Our first Southern stop on the way to Big Sur proper was an unexpected turn at the Elephant Seal viewing area in San Simeon.

Don’t let the mellow photo fool you. These elephant seals play-fought in the water together and bounced along the shores until we experienced cuteness overload.

Yes, it’s free like everything else on this list. You’ll just stop on the side of the highway for your up close encounters with wildlife.

10.  Swim at gorgeous Salmon Creek Falls

Location on Google Maps: Salmon Creek Trailhead

Hiking distance: 0.3 miles

waterfall at salmon creek falls

Wow! These gorgeous, green falls at Salmon Creek reside just a short walk from highway 1, so no strenuous hiking is involved.

Keep an eye out as you map your Big Sur drive, because you’ll have to quickly park at the side of the road (no parking lot) on a busy bend of highway.

Wade, swim, and jump in the emerald pool to cool off. If you desire a longer hike, you can continue up the trail to Upper Salmon Creek Falls, about 5 miles round trip.

9. Slide down Ragged Point and enjoy a private beach

Location on Google Maps: Ragged Point Inn & Resort

Hiking distance: 0.8 miles

Ragged Point is a steep hike that leads you down the cliff to a gorgeous, quiet sandy beach where you will probably be alone, due to the nature of the trail.

You will park in the same parking lot as Ragged Point Inn & Resort, with the trailhead behind the hotel.

To make the descent safely, you’ll want athletic shoes with traction since the loose dirt tended to slide underneath your feet.

We had fun stomping and jumping around the round rocks at the bottom and finding our own hideaways for about an hour.

8. Discover hidden Redwood trees at Redwood Gulch

Location on Google Maps: Nathaniel Owings Memorial Redwood Grove

Hiking distance: 0.6 miles

We missed the stop at Redwood Gulch, because no sign warned us along the road. After turning around and going back to the coordinates of the unmarked turnoff, we spotted a thin beige path.

This unassuming path led us to the location of the southernmost Redwood trees, lining a watering hole perfect for a skinny dip.

rocky shells on forest ground

The humble falls and musky forest seemed to be plucked out of a fairytale. (Any 90’s babies remember the cartoon forest nymph, Fern Gully?).

7. Slink in the caves at Sand Dollar Beach

Location on Google Maps: Sand Dollar Beach

Sand Dollar Beach might possibly be our favorite beach in California.

We discovered several spacious caves on the edge of the beach, large enough to walk around in and relax. The caves resembled secret auditoriums, a shaded paradise away from the world while we lazily peered out at the blue horizon.

In addition to private caves, the beauty and adventure lured us in. The water appeared so clear and pristine that you could see each grain of sand beside your toes. The sky reflected off the sand, projecting an infinite sapphire vortex.

To avoid any fees, simply park on the street outside of the parking lot.

6. Camp above the clouds

Location: Hidden (Details below)

camping above the clouds in big sur

Big Sur’s low-brewing clouds prove eerily reminiscent of a James Bond film, paired with boosted high mountains that call in the heavens.

Although most official campgrounds were listed around $40-$70 per night, you can save the cash and camp for free in several astounding locations throughout Big Sur.

Instead of giving away all the secrets here and exposing the spots, I recommend you use the apps and websites Campendium, Boondocking, or freecampsites.net to check out the updated campsites that other reviewers have listed. These are the tools I always use on my primitive camping journey, along with maps.me.

A lot of these camp spots require a four-wheel drive vehicle to reach them (we learned the hard way) and may be unofficial, but they will usually be free.

Other non-free options include looking on Hipcamp (like Airbnb, but for camping) or camping within the state parks and official campgrounds (Kirk Creek campground has an awesome view!).

5.  Take a magical hike along Mill Creek

Location on Google Maps: Mill Creek Trailhead

Hiking distance: 2.3 miles

Zip down the mile-or-so-long trail to quiet Mill Creek, where you can walk-in camp or just chill by the creek in a forest-flooded daze.

The forest quickly transformed into pages of a storybook: illustrations depicted sleeping wood, golden sunlight peaking through the standing beauties, and viney grottos to soak in.

We plummeted to the bottom of the valley and turned left along the creek, following the water’s way to increase the trail length. Just watch out for poison oak and snakes along the way (and bring warm clothes for after that icy fresh bath, even in Summer.)

4. Prance in purple sand at northern beaches

Location on Google Maps: Andrew Molera Beach or Pfieffer Beach

purple sand bluffs at andrew molera beach

Our Big Sur drive displayed a rainbow of colors, from purple sand to green forests, blue skies, and orange Golden poppies.

The rose tinted bluffs, like in the photo above, scatter purple sand along Pfeiffer and Andrew Molera beaches.

You’ll have to visit the beach to find the most concentrated areas, where the sand is literally bright violet.

3. Tread in the Big Sur River

Location on Google Maps: Big Sur River Gorge

Our beloved sun’s UV rays don’t take the day off even when the weather is overcast, so we sought a brief whisper of shade along the Big Sur River.

The River Gorge forms a swimming hole in crystal clear pools after a mellow trail.

2. Visit the renowned state parks

Seeking a remote escape, travelers can receive free hugs from the wildflowers, arbors, and aquatic bodies that live in Big Sur’s state parks.

Winding miles and miles of trails in these state parks each tell their own chapter in Big Sur’s anthology.

golden poppies in front of ocean on big sur drive

While most of the parks are $10 for cars to park, you can instead park on highway 1 and enter them for free on foot (except for Limekiln: no walk-ins).

If you do decide to purchase the $10 parking pass for any of the following parks, the pass is valid for any of the other parks on the same day - essentially free.

Limekiln State Park

Location on Google Maps: Limekiln State Park

Arrive before 10AM to get a parking spot in this southern state park.

Skip over to Limekiln Creek Falls for a dreamy staircase of cascades, and follow along peaceful Hare Creek for a 2 mile nature walk.

Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park

Location on Google Maps: Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park

The Pfeiffer Falls and Valley View combination route guided us to a modest-falling spout, though nonetheless enchanting, and a sunny lookout to reward our sweaty backs at the top.

The most well-rounded journey is Buzzard’s Roost trail, a spellbinding path sprinkled with young redwoods, tricky hills, and the Big Sur River welcoming you at the front door.

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park

Location on Google Maps: Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park

The picturesque McWay Falls graces postcards and magnets as an icon of Big Sur proper.

Besides the falls that tumble onto a scenic, teal beach, the park charms with a secluded silver bay and cliff-hanging trails.

Andrew Molera State Park

Location on Google Maps: Andrew Molera State Park

Combine the Beaches (easy), Bluffs (moderate), and Ridge (strenuous) trails for a heart-beating 8-mile adventure, or simply pick one to wander along.

If the fog clears out along the Ridge trail, you’ll get a panoramic view of baby blue waters among the fragrant foliage — though you’ll have to climb dozens of flights to earn it.

For a less mobile day, indulge in pure beach access at Molera Point.

1. Pick your own seascape spot for an epic vista picnic

Location: Anywhere there’s a turnoff

foamy shoreline on big sur drive

The Big Sur drive is full of epic views like these, with no one else around…

Sometimes, the most precious pleasures are the freedoms you create yourself.

Roll up a quilt and tuck in sandwiches, muffins and hot coffee. Simmer over to a turnoff on the coastal highway, and enjoy a picnic overlooking one of the last natural places in the world.


hi wolfette, i’m molly

Travel is a spiritual experience for me, especially when adventuring solo.

After visiting 6 continents on my own, I’ve dedicated this project to assisting other Lone Wolfettes on their journeys.

I hope my travel guides help you find the same joy, connection, and empowerment that exploring our planet has given me.


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Yosemite in November | Best Things to do in Autumn

Central California’s Yosemite National Park was the third area to be declared a national park in the United States in 1890, properly preserved for its abundant wildlife and rugged beauty.

Yosemite is famous for its colossal granite mountain faces, frothy waterfalls and enormous Sequoia trees. The park’s serene setting is a magnet for adventurous backpackers making their way up the John Muir Trail, as well as groups visiting from around the world to camp in the Valley and see the main sites.

We visited the park in late October 2020, which had its advantages, but also its drawbacks — both of which I will detail in this article.

Here is a snapshot preview of our trip to Yosemite National Park during COVID times: the pros, the cons, and the best things to do in Fall.

Camp in Aspen Grove

We entered the park at the east entrance near Mammoth Lakes, California at an icy 9,000 feet altitude – a chilly welcome, yet with many advantages.

Right near this entrance lies Aspen Grove – a secluded campground tucked away in the quiet forest. 

A rocky creek splashes beside the sites, breaking up the stillness of the cool air.  Copper, orange, and rustic red trees are spiced along the stream.  Fallen limbs brim the water’s edge where nature has run its course.

The weather temperature dropped below freezing that night, but the soft sunrise that peaked through hard branches was worth the extra frost.

Lounge at lakes along Tioga Pass

Majestic waters awaited us along Tioga Pass, the scenic stretch of highway through the park that stays open until snow season around November.

We stopped for photo ops of the freshwater beauties, the perfect royal blue backdrops.

I was dressed in so many layers of chunky sweaters and scarves and snowboard pants, right before the sun suddenly sneaks out and surprised us.  We even saw other hikers wearing shorts as we unraveled a million layers off our body!

Trek up Cathedral Lakes Trail

This steep climb will have you ascending around 1000 feet per mile.  With crisp mountain air as our fuel, the hike to Cathedral Lakes and back is 8 miles roundtrip, even with the big hill!

Spoiler alert: with a 30-pound “Phatty” the pooch in tow, we never made it to Cathedral Lakes – but mainly because the Autumn sundown creeps in early at 5PM (no worries, Phatty).

Fall in love with Bridalveil Falls

The only waterfall that still flows in Autumn is Bridalveil Falls, as all the other cascades have dried up over the summer without rain. 

Currently, Bridalveil Falls is currently closed in 2020 for construction (can’t catch a break this year, can we?).  However, the falls are still beautiful to glimpse from afar until the trail opens up again.

Crawl into a Hollow Tree in Mariposa Grove

At the bottom of a lonely canyon lies the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias, a haunted walk of fallen leaves and silent giants. 

We stumbled upon an old tree with the insides hollowed out.  Though I can be claustrophobic, I can cross off my bucket list that I have crawled through a tree longways like a tunnel.

Be aware, the 2-mile hike back out of the valley grove proves quite steep!

Frolic and splash among Autumn colors

Speaking of trees, what list of Autumn moments would be complete without including jumping in a pile of crunchy orange leaves?!

Honestly, the best thing about visiting Yosemite in Fall is the spectrum of colorful shades.  The contrast of dark and light shades in Yosemite’s lakes, peaks and trees is stunning.

Gaze up at Granite Domes

The most striking feature of Yosemite National Park is the epic granite domes that tower over visitors in Yosemite Valley. 

These chalk-colored monsters were shaped from glaciers that swept over the granite during the ice age, along with erosion, forming huge domes.

Take the trail along Mirror Lake for protruding views of the gargantuan Half Dome, or stop in the valley meadows to look El Capitan in its 3,000-foot face.

Dance, sing, and play music in the park

With less crowds in the Fall, we often had the trails to ourselves in the late afternoons – besides for the thriving animals and plants, of course.

We danced with hula hoops through private corners and played flute to echo among the trees, listening to the sounds of the forest speaking back to us.

In a nutshell, or an acorn, the best way to spend your time in the park is by carving out your own adventure on the trails less traveled by (with less visitors in Fall) and making the most of the off season (through cold weather and COVID times).

You will find there is always something unique to discover in Yosemite National Park!

Strange Things to do in Salton Sea, California | 8 Sights of a Ghost Town

Abandoned resort towns. Off-beat desert art. Lawless societies.  

Southern California’s Salton Sea is a 3 hour drive from Los Angeles, yet the communities near this salty body of water resemble that of a different world.

And different – or ‘strange’ – is a beautiful thing.

tv art salton sea

Slab City’s Wall of TV’s in East Jesus is one of the most photographed exhibits near the Salton Sea.

Wondering about the best sights to see in this otherworldly ghost town?

This article covers the raw and real account of our 2-day adventure to the desert, including my favorite things to do in the Salton Sea area, from Bombay Beach to Salvation Mountain.

While the summers swell over 100 degrees Fahrenheit in the Sonoran Desert, the winters bring adventurers out to the dry land for unabashed living, free to roam independently.

steampunk art on back of trailer

Finding hidden steampunk art was one of my favorite things to do in the creative district.

We left our urban home of San Diego at dawn and made it to the desert early for some quiet time and uncrowded photos.

Though we didn’t scour every single corner during the weekend, here are my favorite things to do near the mystical Salton Sea.

standing in the wind during desert sunrise

Getting up for a sunrise photoshoot was absolutely worth it.

 
 

1. Stroll the Legendary Salvation Mountain

salvation mountain

Salvation Mountain is Leonard Knights’ life work and homage to God in the middle of nowhere.

Colorful Dr. Seuss vibes dazzle Salvation Mountain out in Imperial County’s desert.

The biblical mountain was built by the late Leonard Knight who spent over 20 years building and painting the structure out of his pickup truck in the unforgiving desert.

The first hymn-covered hill he constructed actually collapsed after 4 years of work because it was built on sand.

Afterward, he carefully started over, saying it was God’s will for him to share these messages despite the obstacles.  His handiwork demonstrates perseverance and dedication, reminding me of the Old Testament story of Noah’s Ark.  

views of salvation mountain

Lots and lots and lots of paint.

I’m thankful Leonard never gave up on his life’s work, as his writings of love and hope shine vividly today.

Note: Part of the hill was under construction and not fully open when we visited.

2. View trash-turned-treasure in Slab City

I admit it felt a bit uneasy to be stepping foot in the lawless land of Slab City for the first time.

 
entrance to slab city

Visiting Slab City is a must on your Salton Sea itinerary.

 

Just a quick hop and a skip down the road from Salvation Mountain lies the unincorporated boondocks of Slab City, the modern day village where retirees, nomads and snowbirds have gathered for decades in the Southern California desert.   

But the first thing we saw as we drove up the main road in our bright sedan eased our nervous qualms. 

art car slab city

Everything is art in Slab City, home to the alternative souls.

We were welcomed by a young woman playing banjo on a couch near the main entrance to the community.  Her platinum locks and puffy princess dress stood out from what looked like a crowd tailgating on the side of the road, or an RV park version of a neighborhood block party.

The town’s moniker refers to the concrete slabs that remain left over from a World War II military base, now inhabited by squatters.

 
alien salton sea

I want what he’s having…

 


3. Ponder the East Jesus exhibit

Striking. Resourceful. Beautiful.

The ever-changing East Jesus exhibit on the edge of Slab City is a gallery of treasures crafted from another’s trash.

Old vehicles become furry creatures, televisions transform into blank canvases for hand-painted messages, and tourists’ forgotten water bottles hang together for an art piece.

Contrasting with the whimsical pieces, a Black Lives Matter section a la 2020 rendered me speechless.  The last words from Black men and women before they were murdered by police both haunted and moved me. 

black lives matter exhibit
black lives matter exhibit in salton sea
black lives matter salton sea exhibit

Honestly, viewing the Black Lives Matter exhibit was the most memorable things I did in the Salton Sea area.


4. Spot the Salton Sea Sculptures

porch view sculpture on the beach

Along the Salton Sea, lonely swings and shapely sculptures perch along toxic waters. 

With no drainage, the sediment of surrounding sand oversalted the manmade sea, producing a deadly graveyard for fish and plants.

However, there are special nuances to the sea, despite the sulfuric smell.

Sunrises glow out of the water, something us Californians never experience on the Pacific Coast.

Antique furniture, doorways to nowhere, and anonymous transcripts left us smiling.  I felt at home and at Burning Man at the same time. 

5. Visit the Ghost Town Resort: Bombay Beach

Salton Sea actually used to be swimmable.  Bombay Beach, now a ghost town, brought celebrities in the 1950s like Frank Sinatra and the Beach Boys, and even offered fishing and boating.

After the sea turned toxic in the 1970s, the town emitted a post-apocalyptic energy, cluttered with remnants of what was once before.   

Though most visitors we saw simply drove through without stopping, we strolled around the hot desert town to find anomalies like upside down airplanes, mannequin scarecrows and a lot of displaced items on roofs.

 
cow on roof
 


6. Stay at the Zig Zag House

We stayed overnight at the Zig Zag House in Bombay Beach, thanks to our gracious host named Tao. 

zig zag house salton sea

Photo by Kirsten Pastel

Apparently, it’s a Pinterest-made-popular house since tourists were getting out of their cars to take photos of the puzzling-patterned trailer during our stay. 

zig zag house

We met individuals from all over who had come to take photos… including some of us!

posing in front of the zig zag house

I loved the charming red vibes inside the Zig Zag House, and all the enchanting elements of the exterior.

zig zag house bombay beach


7. Sneak in the Drive-In

Is it a theater?  A junkyard?  Or a captivating art piece?

The Bombay Beach Drive-in left me with many questions. 

bombay beach drive in

I presume moviegoers left their vintage buggies a long time ago, and a new wave of artists decorated each car, mixing contemporary creations with nostalgia.

abandoned cars at drive in

Either way, you’ll want to watch your step.

8. Shoot the Estates

This doo-wop turned hipster town would not be complete without an array of abandoned buildings that any street photographer would salivate over.

bombay beach estates

The Bombay Beach Estates stand out, however, with the addition of the World’s Shittiest Museum.  

Like a decrepit art house, the ‘museum’ showcases a crass theme in every room. 

worlds shittiest museum

A putrid lime green room satirizes the phrase Cleanliness is Godliness with toilet brushes tantalizing the décor.

worlds shittiest museum

In other quarters, somber sayings sprayed on walls punch you in the gut with raw emotion.

the bombay beach estates

* * *


In today’s days post-pandemic, this trip was a fantastic getaway for those interested in ghost towns or provoking art.   All activities here were free, but you can donate with cash (or other treats) if you like at some of the exhibits.

artsy houses in the salton sea

The air out in Imperial County was eerily quiet at first, but grew peaceful as we stayed longer.  This was probably for the best, considering social distancing.  

While a bit risky heading out in the middle of nowhere, we met several kind folks who seemed like they sought to escape mainstream reality for a reason.

tv art bombay beach

And the strangest sight of all? Waiting for that pink sun to rise out of the mysterious sea.

pink sunrise salton sea

hi wolfette, i’m molly

Travel is a spiritual experience for me, especially when adventuring solo.

After visiting 6 continents on my own, I’ve dedicated this project to assisting other Lone Wolfettes on their journeys.

I hope my travel guides help you find the same joy, connection, and empowerment that exploring our planet has given me.


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