New Mexico

Visiting Chaco Canyon | Boondocking through New Mexico

When I decided to visit New Mexico,

I didn’t know the energy from ancient communities would move me to tears.

I didn’t know about the sapphire lakes with winds that test your strength of survival.

And I didn’t know about the valley rainbows that follow you daily, protruding out of majestic mountains and murky clouds.

While visiting the northwest side of the state in September 2020 during COVID-19, several parks and campground remain closed, so we tossed our plans in the trash and walked along the corn pollen road of growth and spontaneity.

Boondocking, or primitive camping, freed and liberated us.  BLM lands remain open to the public for camping and day use, giving us a chance to socially distance while visiting the wonders of native lands.

Here are a few tales from the crypt: the best of our New Mexico road trip.   

We felt the spirit of Chaco Culture National Historic Park

Our first stop on ancient grounds highlighted the beginning of our road trip in northern New Mexico. 

Near the Four Corners, Chaco Canyon houses a national park thought to be a sacred gathering place – or something else anthropologists ponder.

Brick by brick, up to one story of hand-laid walls remain preserved, with the silence of the air only interrupted by the howl of the Southwest wind.

Powerful energy radiates from the enigmatic kivas and marvelous mesas at Chaco Culture National Historic Park.

The best thing to do in Chaco Canyon is to hike up through the park on trails that lead you around old pueblos among rolling hills.  Step into another time and witness an up-close look at the kivas and holy places.

As we ascended up the hike towards Pueblo Alto, we were swept away by dramatic canyon views higher and higher.

The hikes are no joke at this high elevation, so be prepared for that solid New Mexico sun. It transformed me into a hot tomato!

We soared above clouds at Angel’s Peak

While looking for a free campground, we stumbled upon a gift sent from angels.

Named for the neighboring tall summit, Angel Peak Campground offers free semi-primitive camping on BLM land up and up near the clouds.

After making our way up the windy road, we settled into a spot at around 4PM, no problem, and took a moment to soak in the views, and even do some painting!

Hiking along the trail during sunset hour toned down the evening as the red of the sky burned away.

We made a special visit to Durango, Colorado

After a few days of road tripping near the Four Corners, we realized we were only a half hour away from Colorado’s border – and what a better time to try some recreational CO herb?

Besides sampling legal weed, we dreamt of a lake where we could swim and stand up paddleboard – eager to savor the last days of sunny September weather before Colorado suddenly shifts to frosty Fall.

And our dreams came true.  Right around the corner from the dispensary lies Lake Nighthorse, a sparkling pool of serenity. 

Better yet, Monday and Wednesday at Lake Nighthorse is no wake day, meaning no jet skis or boats disturbed the flow of kayakers, paddleboarders, and other aquatic adventurers like ourselves – and Phatty, the furry Lhasa Apso!

We danced on sacred Cox Canyon Arch

Cox Canyon Arch stands on the border between Colorado and New Mexico, a short half-mile hike hidden amongst sanded boulders and spiked succulents.

Scramble up shifted rocks to the steep top, and respect this special land – there’s something about it I can’t quite put my finger on…

We braved a challenging paddle at Navajo Lake State Park

Ok, so I learned the hard way that paddling out to an island may take a lot longer than I thought – not to mention the way back in gusty cross winds!

I’m thankful the lifeguards at Navajo Lake told us to wear our life jackets, because this big, beautiful, blue being of water at Navajo Lake State Park took on a life of its own throughout the afternoon. 

Whipping winds surprised my naïve SoCal plans and transformed a gingerly paddle into an intense hour-long race back to shore, but I would return in a heartbeat for the immense space and lush mountain backdrops.  

We slinked through Aztec Ruins

Is it slinked or slunk?  Either way, I felt like a sleuth as we investigated the compelling ruins in Aztec, New Mexico. 

The name Aztec is a misnomer, because the site did not belong to Aztec people – instead, it was constructed by Southwest tribes referred to today as ‘Ancestral Puebloans’.

Some of these structures at the Aztec Ruins were rebuilt to give you a modern look at the great houses and ceremonial grounds.  The doorways were tiny!

This energetic center is believed to an outside meeting grounds connected to the people of Chaco Canyon.

We ate famous green chile in Albuquerque

Braving that scary high and narrow road on top of Navajo Dam, we headed South to relish the state’s spicy staple sauce slopped on huevos rancheros or enchiladas.

Frankly, we ate famous New Mexico green chile so fast that I forgot to snap a photo. Forgive me, but at least now you know it’s certainly worth a try!

We spontaneously trekked to White Sands National Park

With several state parks closed to out-of-state visitors due to COVID-19, we decided a national park excursion was the way to go, while safely social distancing.

The silver lining of these closures appeared as an impromptu visit to White Sands National Park, the largest dune field of gypsum sand in the world.

The white sand felt soft as velvet, packed finely underneath our toes.  The sky blazed a memorable sunset as we picnicked on what looked like a private, 275-square-mile mineral blanket of ‘beach’.

We stopped in homey trading posts

Every Route 66 road trip deserves a stop to an old trading post for souvenirs!

We stumbled upon a rustic shop where I found a handwoven dreamcatcher from a woman with sun spotted hands and strong energy…

…as well as a quirky highway-side gift shop where a little old lady had just baked a fresh batch of fudge that was so delicious, we regret not buying more to this day!

Well, fudge. Until next time, New Mexico!

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Thanks to Anh Pham for contributing several photos to this article, and for eating green chile with me that knocked you off your feet… and to Phatty, the furry friend stuck with us.